Problems Forming Veneer

[jteneyck]

Thanks guys - I appreciate all the input 
  I'll let you know what I end of doing.  Before I created this thread I had already cut another piece of veneer and put it in a bucket of water, so it's been in there a couple of days now.  Maybe I'll fill the sink with hot water and let it soak in that for a few minutes, then try to form it.

Thanks for the video link John, that was actually the first video I came across when I started researching 


Rich

The video shows you that you need HOT water (or steam, or dry heat) in order to soften the lignins in the wood for it to bend.  Cold water won't do it.  

John

[ez-duzit]

Be careful using epoxy for attaching veneer. It is possible to have it soak through thin, porous veneers and stain the exposed surface.

[mound]

Thanks guys - I appreciate all the input 
  I'll let you know what I end of doing.  Before I created this thread I had already cut another piece of veneer and put it in a bucket of water, so it's been in there a couple of days now.  Maybe I'll fill the sink with hot water and let it soak in that for a few minutes, then try to form it.

Thanks for the video link John, that was actually the first video I came across when I started researching 


Rich

I did a shape like this once. I used a glycerin based "veneer softener" - it's a solution you pre-treat the veneer with and once it's "softened" you can literally roll the veneer up like a cigar and it doesn't crack.. Then, I used hot-hide glue and a veneer hammer to affix it in place by hand.

[Rob Young]

I did as little research on this but then it dawned on me that any method involving heat probably would not work for this.  I print using PLA filament which I believe has a melting point of around 65 degrees C (149 F).

Rich

For PLA, the plastic flow starts around 180F (depends on brand). 

If you used a hair dryer on a low temp it should be OK. If you can stand the air blowing on the back of your hand for a while, it won't significantly affect the PLA. It might take longer. And you wouldn't need to worry about accidentally scorching the veneer.

[criageek]

I finally found a process that worked for me.  But before that I had another failed attempt.  On that attempt I tried using Gorilla glue and found that the veneer is actually porous...when held at a certain angle I can see light through it.  So when clamped the glue squeezed through.

   
I started sanding it, and I think that would have been ok, but I found that I had screwed up in several places when I trimmed the veneer so I started over.  I do 3D printing so this time I printed some clamps to clamp the edges to try to keep them from splitting and it worked beautifully.  I had previously printed these forms for forming the veneer.

   
After soaking the veneer in water overnight (with edge clamps installed) I patted it dry then clamped it into the forms with a paper towel between the form and the veneer to help wick off the water.

   
I added several more clamps after snapping that picture.  Here is what it looked like after about a day and a half.

   
And here is what it looks like after gluing and trimming (I used 3M Super 90 spray adhesive this time), ready to stain and install on the radio.

   

   

Thanks for the help!

Rich

[CStan]

Super-Soft 2, as somebody else mentioned.

[criageek]

Super-Soft 2, as somebody else mentioned.

Thanks CStan - for some reason I didn't get notifications for the messages posted on the 7th and 9th and didn't see them until I posted again today.  If I had seen them I more than likely would have ordered some Super-Soft 2.  But I'm glad it worked out the way it did.  I found a solution that worked...and worked well...for a fraction of the cost.  It probably cost me about $0.50 to print the clamps.  So, I hope this helps someone else in a similar situation.

Rich