Removing old, stuck deck screws
#11
I had to remove a row of pressure treated wood from a deck. Some screws came right out, but a bunch ended in cam out. I used a jigsaw to remove most of the plank. I still have skinny sections with screws through them. The are countersunk deep enough that I cannot get any kind of vice grips on them, of course. It's time to get new boards in, so I need those out.

Lots of ways to approach that -- but what is the fastest, easiest, and least likely to destroy the joists underneath? And yes, I am going to wax the new screws.
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
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#12
(04-08-2021, 12:24 PM)Aram Wrote: I had to remove a row of pressure treated wood from a deck. Some screws came right out, but a bunch ended in cam out. I used a jigsaw to remove most of the plank. I still have skinny sections with screws through them. The are countersunk deep enough that I cannot get any kind of vice grips on them, of course. It's time to get new boards in, so I need those out.

Lots of ways to approach that -- but what is the fastest, easiest, and least likely to destroy the joists underneath? And yes, I am going to wax the new screws.

Screw Extractor is your friend.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/SpeedOut-8-1-8-...1000170531
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#13
Been there, done that. Carbide tipped oscillating blade. Get under the decking and cut the screw at the joist. Any screw stub can be whacked into the joist.

These are the ones I use. Not cheap but you can zip thru a screw in a few seconds. Use the whole blade so you don't wear out just a few teeth and the blade lasts longer.
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#14
I can't quite picture what it looks like, but a 4½" angle grinder with the right disc makes fast work of screws.  Wear eye protection.  Lots of sparks.
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#15
(04-08-2021, 01:53 PM)Cooler Wrote: I can't quite picture what it looks like, but a 4½" angle grinder with the right disc makes fast work of screws.  Wear eye protection.  Lots of sparks.

I use a heavy pry bar to pull them out like nails if they are strong deck screws.  If the head pulls off then use a big vicegrip.
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#16
Cut the wood very short, break it with grain and prybar/visegrip/grinder what's left.
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#17
(04-08-2021, 05:31 PM)Wild Turkey Wrote: Cut the wood very short, break it with grain and prybar/visegrip/grinder what's left.

Thanks, everyone. I ended up doing this. Done.
Best,
Aram, always learning

"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery


Web: My woodworking photo site
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#18
As an aside, I only used square drive screws on my deck.  I was mostly concerned about driving the screws, but removing should be easy too and I have never had a square drive or star drive torque out on me.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
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#19
(04-08-2021, 01:59 PM)Splinter Puller Wrote: I use a heavy pry bar to pull them out like nails if they are strong deck screws.  If the head pulls off then use a big vicegrip.

+1. If I can't pull them, I break them off.
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#20
(04-09-2021, 10:00 AM)Cooler Wrote: As an aside, I only used square drive screws on my deck.  I was mostly concerned about driving the screws, but removing should be easy too and I have never had a square drive or star drive torque out on me.

Grid in the recess is a problem when removing old square drive deck screws.  I bring a narrow awl to loosen the grit and then blow the screw heads clean with compressed air.  Then, remove them.
WoodNET... the new safespace
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