(05-12-2021, 10:40 AM)Cooler Wrote: You would put mastic over the old tile and lay new tile on top of it? Will that provide enough adhesion?
Would self-leveling concrete work for filling the grout lines? Or should I simply add more grout and use a putty knife to level the grout lines?
Yes, one of the modified thin-sets following manufacture's recommendations for that application. Even if they don't require it, I roughen the face with a diamond cup wheel. You don't have to grind off all the glaze, so use just enough water to quell the dust, then wash with TSP. Whoever guts the bath next time will be removing both layers of tile at once. They won't come apart. If there are no existing cracked tiles, then the sub-floor should be o.k.. I check for un-bonded tiles by tapping with a hammer or dragging a chain around the floor.
If you decide to fill grout lines, I suggest Rapid-Set Cement-All. Mix to a consistency of pancake batter with a power drill and appropriate sized mixer, pour it from a paper cup where needed. You can scrape it flush when it starts to set, but before it hardens. This time frame is only a few minutes, so work fast or do small batches. It's ready for foot traffic before you can finish cleaning your tools.
You do not use foam underlayment for laminate floors under L.V.T.. L.V.T needs a solid flat surface. Any bumps will show as you wear through the "wear layer" and color sheet revealing the white color backer sheet.
Floor leveler (i.e. Level Best and Level-lastic) will not stick to the face of glazed tiles.
It sounds like your L.V.T. is a peel-and-stick ship-lap variety. The adhesive is pretty good, but will not hold up with standing water.
Hope this information helps.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"