Posts: 1,305
Threads: 0
Joined: Jul 2004
I'm currently designing my dust collection for a new 18" Rikon Band Saw with two 4" ports.
It's near a 5 hp cyclone with 8" Nordfab mains.
Normally folks would hook up two 4" quality flex hoses to the 6" vertical drop connecting to the cyclone.
However, since flex hoses are notoriously inefficient, has anyone tried using 5" flex hose on their Bandsaw?
Is this overkill?
Posts: 12,610
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2003
Location: Wapakoneta, OH
06-29-2021, 10:54 AM
(This post was last modified: 06-30-2021, 05:16 AM by fredhargis.)
I don't think it's overkill, no such thing with DC (IMHO). But since you have a large unit and 2-4" ports, the gain (5" versus 4") may be minimal. My bandsaw only has one 4" port, but hooked to a CV it seems to do fairly well. I think if I had 2 ports it would be great.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Posts: 14,865
Threads: 10
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: southeastern VA
(06-29-2021, 10:39 AM)Murray M Wrote: I'm currently designing my dust collection for a new 18" Rikon Band Saw with two 4" ports.
It's near a 5 hp cyclone with 8" Nordfab mains.
Normally folks would hook up two 4" quality flex hoses to the 6" vertical drop connecting to the cyclone.
However, since flex hoses are notoriously inefficient, has anyone tried using 5" flex hose on their Bandsaw?
Is this overkill?
The trick is in how you do the transition from the two 4" ports on the BS to your hoses and to your 6" port.
Finding an adapter for the 6" port to two 5" hoses might be problematic.
My expectation is that, if you can stretch the flex hoses out so as to avoid a 90* sharp bend at the BS ports, you would actually be better off with two 4" hoses rather than two 5" hoses.
Alternatively, if you are not going to be moving the BS around, you could go with non-flex duct work for the lower port and only use the flex hose for the upper port.
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick
A wish for you all: May you keep buying green bananas.
Posts: 24,145
Threads: 2
Joined: Sep 2003
Location: Missouri
Double 4" T to 5" or 6" should be available in metal.
Steve
Mo.
I miss the days of using my dinghy with a girlfriend too. Zack Butler-4/18/24
The Revos apparently are designed to clamp railroad ties and pull together horrifically prepared joints
WaterlooMark 02/9/2020
Posts: 12,907
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
I stuck with 4" on my 2 port Grizzly bandsaw; just kept the runs as short as possible, to a 4" Y on the 6" primary duct and it works fine. Resawing 12" thick stock generates an incredible amount of sawdust so getting adequate CFM to capture it is really important.
John
Posts: 16,604
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 2002
Location: Ra-cha-cha, NY
06-30-2021, 10:03 AM
(This post was last modified: 07-01-2021, 07:52 AM by TDKPE.)
Smooth walled 4" flex may be plenty with a DC with high SP rating. Like a vacuum cleaner, with low CFM but high SP. If there isn't a lot of open area on the BS for air to get in, there isn't much need for large ducts to take the air out, but high SP at low flow rates will help pull the air through those restricted inlet spaces.
I use two short, cheap corrugated 4" flex lines to my antique 12" Craftsman BS, into a 4x4x5" wye and 5" duct to the 6" main. It's the wye that came with the HFDC that I turned it into a cyclone, in fact. Being that max SP on that blower only measured about 7.3" WC, there isn't much more I can do to improve air flow through the BS other than get a bigger better blower that can 'pull harder'. Which the OP has.
Tom
“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
Posts: 1,305
Threads: 0
Joined: Jul 2004
07-01-2021, 06:45 AM
(This post was last modified: 07-01-2021, 06:49 AM by Murray M.)
(06-29-2021, 02:58 PM)iclark Wrote: The trick is in how you do the transition from the two 4" ports on the BS to your hoses and to your 6" port.
Finding an adapter for the 6" port to two 5" hoses might be problematic.
My expectation is that, if you can stretch the flex hoses out so as to avoid a 90* sharp bend at the BS ports, you would actually be better off with two 4" hoses rather than two 5" hoses.
Alternatively, if you are not going to be moving the BS around, you could go with non-flex duct work for the lower port and only use the flex hose for the upper port.
Thanks Everyone
1) I decided to skip Nordfab and go with Spiral. For the price difference I could get a $4K tool which would help more. Or a vacation.
2) IClark's argument for 4" is compelling.
3) Another argument for 4" is that PERFECTION isn't possible [with reasonable designs]. Dust will always find a way on the table. Looking at the problem through that lens help clarify my original question: yes, 5" is overkill.
4) But I can't resist the drug of perfection. It just tastes SO GREAT. So I'm now planning to spiral duct both ports in with no flex tube. I've mapped my shop out in SketchUp and I know this saw will never need to move. Take that, universe! I'll add a picture here when it's done and expect y'all to roll your eyes. I love this place.
: )
Posts: 12,610
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2003
Location: Wapakoneta, OH
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Posts: 925
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2013
Location: Columbia, SC
07-01-2021, 10:31 AM
(This post was last modified: 07-01-2021, 10:45 AM by Hank Knight.)
I have the same set-up Fred has: A single 4" port on my 18" bandsaw and a ClearVue 1800 Cyclone. I ran a 6" spiral flex hose from the main 6" trunk line to my bandsaw duct where a step-down adapter reduces it to 4" at the saw. I think the large spiral flex hose reduces the resistance I would get with a smaller 4" spiral hose. Mine does fairly well, but I wish I had another saw port at the lower blade guide.
I also agree with Fred: Don't get too wedded to the idea that your saw won't move. Mine has been all over my shop at one time or another in my quest to find the best arrangement for my power tools.
Posts: 16,642
Threads: 2
Joined: Oct 1999
(06-30-2021, 09:44 AM)jteneyck Wrote: I stuck with 4" on my 2 port Grizzly bandsaw; just kept the runs as short as possible, to a 4" Y on the 6" primary duct and it works fine. Resawing 12" thick stock generates an incredible amount of sawdust so getting adequate CFM to capture it is really important.
John
I did the same thing with my Rikon 18 incher that John did with his Griz. I connected the two ports with a couple of hard plastic fittings from Rockler and 4" flexible tubing with smooth walls. This past winter I completely reworked my DC system. Put a Wynn filter on my Penn State 2 1/2 HP collector and installed Rockler's "Dust Right" fittings on every stationary tool in the shop, along with some blast gates. So far this is a tremendous improvement for me (I have a 6" PVC trunk line that hooks to the DC with a 6" section of smooth wall flexible tubing). I also have a Walker Turner 16" bandsaw that I use for curves and smaller projects. Fabricated a collector port for it and installed a Dust Right quick disconnect 4" fitting.
I move the Dust Right hose and handle from tool to tool as needed. I also have ALL my stationary tools on casters or mobile bases. My shop is 24'x30', plenty of room but I just have too many tools - nope, not giving up any of my tools! I move them around as necessary and "store" some out of the way when not in use.
To the OP: Nothing wrong at all with the pursuit of perfection - I'm for it; just not necessarily when it comes to DC.
Doug
|
