Mounting cash drawer under solid quartz countertop

[Bob10]

One more option I'm going to toss out there, I know this will seem crazy as heck.

But the double-sided industrial-strength adhesive tapes (acrylic based) are insanely strong.

I recently had a retail project where they wanted small CPUs (computers) hidden behind touch-screen monitors.  The monitors and CPUs they picked weren't intended to be paired.  I attached them with the adhesive tape, clamped for a while.  Taking them apart required absolute destruction.

I think the epoxy would be okay it just won't handle constant shock of a cash door closing, IMHO.

Me <== Did retail for nearly thirty years, four locations, would never mount a cash draw using a hard-setting adhesive.

I have seen sinks epoxied into counters, it isn't something I do unless it is thicker stone.  Quartz is a man made counter and usually all that thick.

[Cooler]

One more option I'm going to toss out there, I know this will seem crazy as heck.

But the double-sided industrial-strength adhesive tapes (acrylic based) are insanely strong.

I recently had a retail project where they wanted small CPUs (computers) hidden behind touch-screen monitors.  The monitors and CPUs they picked weren't intended to be paired.  I attached them with the adhesive tape, clamped for a while.  Taking them apart required absolute destruction.

I think the epoxy would be okay it just won't handle constant shock of a cash door closing, IMHO.

Me <== Did retail for nearly thirty years, four locations, would never mount a cash draw using a hard-setting adhesive.

The industrial grade 3M double sided adhesive is so strong that it can be very difficult to remove the release film.  But it is still heat activated, so if it is exposed to heat (like in a car window) it can loosen and fail.  But I find it very useful and I keep a roll of it in the house (ordered from Amazon, and about $35.00 per roll). 

The alternative is to use the double sided tape  as a "clamp" while silicone adhesive (or the much stronger E6000 adhesive) sets up, which usually takes about 24 hours if it is exposed to air.  So a large piece of plywood glued with silicone over the entire surface will cure quickly around the perimeter but may take much, much longer in the center of the plywood.

[Cooler]

E6000 is similar to silicone but with a much higher adhesion strength.  I would mount a 3/4' thick piece of plywood to the under-counter.  I would use several small strips of 3M double faced mounting tape along with a generous application of E6000.  The double faced tape will function as a "clamp" until the glue cures.  Please note that the edges will cure overnight, but the globs in the center may takes weeks to cure unless several "breathing" holes are drilled to allow air penetration. 

The same would apply to silicone adhesive, though with a lower resulting strength.

I would install either threaded inserts or bolts prior to the glue-up. 

DO NOT DEPEND UPON THE DOUBLE FACED TAPE TO CARRY ANY WEIGHT.   It is there just to hold things in place during the cure time.  They also allow some space for the adhesive to breath (about 0.030").

E-6000 is styrene-based and has a strong odor for several hours.  Like silicone it remains pliable and stretchy and clear.  It is formulated for both porous and non-porous surfaces. 

Silicone also has an odor, but not as strong as the E6000.  It won't make you sick, but you should probably apply this at the end of the work day.  The odor will be gone by the morning for sure.  The double faced mounting tape is a very handy way to hold these things in place during the cure.


I used silicone adhesive on the glass for my kitchen cabinets and they came loose twice.  I replaced it with E6000 and 22 years later I need new cabinets, but the glass is still in place.

[iclark]

+1 on attaching the cash drawer to a piece of ply (you can use bolts/screws that cannot readily be unscrewed to steal the cash drawer). Then, attach the ply to the underside or use a piece of ply wide enough to mount like a shelf.

You do not want to glue metal to solid quartz countertop material unless you can be sure that the room temperature will never change. If the heat fails in the winter or the AC fails in the summer (or someone decides to go green and save energy by letting the temp float when the store is closed), then the differential thermal expansion between the metal drawer and "quartz" will shear the glue (or even shear screws if it is extreme and there is no slop in the mounting holes.

[Phil Thien]

ZOMBIE thread warning.

[Snipe Hunter]

ZOMBIE thread warning.

+1

[Gary G™]

Capricorn One.
.

[barnowl]

Well, I am not really sure, but I do not see anything better than the most simple solution, silicone. I really do not know what else you could use, especially considering the fact that the countertop is made out of DELETED, which is a really great material actually. However, in this case, it might actually cause a hell of a lot of trouble. I would actually go for silicone and see how it will work, just because I do not have any other ideas. If it would not work from the first time, I would just go for even more silicone
.

SPAMMER...

BAM