Two motor questions

[MstrCarpenter]

Just to state the obvious, one of these motors will be used to drive a good quality sharp blade designed for re-sawing. Right?

[abernat]

Update: I ordered a 2HP motor from Grizzly and it'll be here tomorrow. And a resaw blade.

[TDKPE]

Update: I ordered a 2HP motor from Grizzly and it'll be here tomorrow. And a resaw blade.

Is this the one?  TEFC, NEMA 56 frame, 1725 rpm?  Should bolt right in if so.  


Motor 2 HP Single-Phase 1725 RPM TEFC 110V/220V at Grizzly.com

How are you going to control it? Those Asian motors are generally high current compared to domestic motors, and it's twice the output power to start with, so the original control may not be up to it.

[abernat]

Is this the one?  TEFC, NEMA 56 frame, 1725 rpm?  Should bolt right in if so.  


Motor 2 HP Single-Phase 1725 RPM TEFC 110V/220V at Grizzly.com

How are you going to control it?  Those Asian motors are generally high current compared to domestic motors, and it's twice the output power to start with, so the original control may not be up to it.

I pickedup a new paddle switch since my current one only has buttons (https://www.grizzly.com/products/woodsto...230v/d4151). I'm trying to decide if I want to replace the wiring too - need to measure the gauge on it. I might anyway because wire is "cheap" (cheaper than a fire at least).

[TDKPE]

I pickedup a new paddle switch since my current one only has buttons (https://www.grizzly.com/products/woodsto...230v/d4151). I'm trying to decide if I want to replace the wiring too - need to measure the gauge on it. I might anyway because wire is "cheap" (cheaper than a fire at least).

Unless there’s serious wear or other damage, you shouldn’t need to replace the wiring.  Assuming you’re going to run this one on 240V power, at twice the rated output power but twice the voltage, the current will be in the same general neighborhood.  Any cord used on that saw would be 300V rated or more so that’s not an issue either.

Looks like you’re all set. 

[abernat]

Nothing is on fire at least. The new motor is larger (who knew!) so the frame cover is getting left off. 

I am going to redo the wiring though - the power cord is 14/3, but the design uses a length of 16/5 (... which I haven't seen before, but is cool) to run from the junction box on the motor to the switch. If you can run 15A in 14 gauge wire I can kind of squint and see 10 in 16ga... but not comfortable long-term.

[TDKPE]

Nothing is on fire at least. The new motor is larger (who knew!) so the frame cover is getting left off. 

I am going to redo the wiring though - the power cord is 14/3, but the design uses a length of 16/5 (... which I haven't seen before, but is cool) to run from the junction box on the motor to the switch. If you can run 15A in 14 gauge wire I can kind of squint and see 10 in 16ga... but not comfortable long-term.

16-gauge cord is good to 13A when only two conductors are carrying current.  That’s per NEC Table 400-5(A)(1).  But cord is cheap, so use whatever makes you feel comfortable.

[abernat]

Interesting... I took a look at the table and it talks about 2 or 3 current carrying conductors. This is one cable that goes up to the switch and back down (plus ground) - so wouldn't that be four current carrying conductors?

[TDKPE]

Interesting... I took a look at the table and it talks about 2 or 3 current carrying conductors. This is one cable that goes up to the switch and back down (plus ground) - so wouldn't that be four current carrying conductors?

Oh, sorry.  I thought it just went to the motor from the control.  Not thinking (or reading) clearly.  

[abernat]

Oh, sorry.  I thought it just went to the motor from the control.  Not thinking (or reading) clearly.  

No worries! This is the first power tool I've had that's wired like this. This way they only had one wire to the control box and the power cord came out from the base - I guess? It also means there's an extra junction box in the base to handle the T junction.