Jointer Questions

[lincmercguy]

I've been running the Lowes Special Delta 6" jointer for about 15 years now. It has done well, but I'd like to upgrade to an 8" jointer with an enclosed base. It seems that all larger jointer are six months or more out, so it will probably be a while. I've been keeping an eye on Craigslist as well.

I have a couple of questions.

1. How much of an advantage is parallelogram vs dovetail? I've read that it is easier to adjust the tables, but I've never had to do so on mine.

2. Is a helical cutterhead really worth the extra price? I upgraded to a helical head on my planer and really like it. But it seems that the advantages of it really aren't necessary for a jointer. I imagine it is easier than changing knives, but I don't have to do that very often with my current jointer. I know that many can be upgraded to them later, but I think buying one with it from the start would be cheaper than upgrading a brand new unit.

[Mike 55]

I can't speak about your first question but I can on the second. I had a 8" Delta jointer and upgraded to a helix cutter. It was night and day. First was how much quieter it was. The cut when facing stock was far better. I started using figured wood and had zero tear out when facing or edging stock. It was well worth the money. If I had to buy a new one I would get it hands down.

[lincmercguy]

"First was how much quieter it was. The cut when facing stock was far better. I started using figured wood and had zero tear out when facing or edging stock."

My planer is a lot quieter with it, but that's not a huge factor for me (headphones and no close neighbors).

I did notice that curly wood fared much better in the planer after the upgrade. I used to hate curly maple and now I'm really starting to like it.

[fredhargis]

The parallelogram will draw the 2 obvious replies, 1) you don't need it and 2) you can't live without out it. I'm with #1. If it doesn't cost extra, or it's a minmal difference in cost, I'd get it. But I've had my 8" Jet for about 20 years (dovetail style) and in those 20 years I think I've adjusted the depth of cut maybe a couple of dozen times. The parallelogram also keeps the cutter head closer to the knives, sort of a zero clearance thing, but that doesn't seem to make much difference either. So I'd choose based on cost...it (parallelogram) may be a little more convenient, especially if you constantly adjust the depth of cut, but it's not worth (to me) buckets of cash. As for the insert head, I put a Byrd head in my jet and really like it. To me the noise reduction was worth something. But I also realize that all the surfaces from the jointer do go through the planer so it's probably more important to have the inserts on it. One thing it does do...eliminate the arduous task of setting the knives. When I changed knives it seemed like it took forever to get the set correctly...the inserts make it about a 45 minute job. Its a little tedious since they are so many, but it's really easy.

[jteneyck]

Whatever jointer you can find used that meets your needs is the one I'd buy, DT, parallelogram, straight knives, insert head, etc.  Personally, I see no need for an insert head on a jointer unless it's a J/P combo unit.  The planer has the last say except when edge jointing and there are other ways to deal with edge joint tearout if that's an issue.  DT or parallelogram makes no difference to me as long as the tables are coplaner.  

I'd think a long time about whether an 8" jointer is going to meet your long term needs.  If it will, fine.  My first jointer was 10" wide, now I have a 14" one.  I still wish for wider.  I just don't see 8" as being a very significant step up over a 6" one except for maybe longer tables.  Still, I'd take width any day over length.  Something to think about.  

John

[MT Woodworker]

I have an older grizzly, new knives, works great
Rarely if ever adjust the tables.

[lincmercguy]

"Personally, I see no need for an insert head on a jointer unless it's a J/P combo unit. The planer has the last say except when edge jointing and there are other ways to deal with edge joint tearout if that's an issue."

That's my thought, but I though I would ask. I use a v-drum sander with a fence to sand edges.

"I'd think a long time about whether an 8" jointer is going to meet your long term needs. If it will, fine. My first jointer was 10" wide, now I have a 14" one. I still wish for wider. I just don't see 8" as being a very significant step up over a 6" one except for maybe longer tables. Still, I'd take width any day over length. Something to think about."

I seem to end up with a lot of boards that are 6-8" wide, only a few wider. I have a method for them now, but it's time consuming. It's also a general upgrade as I have a very base model jointer. If I'm going to upgrade, going a bit wider makes sense.

If I was using it to make a living, I would probably go larger yet, if I could find one. Thanks for the advice.

[Aram]

Dovetails are a pain to align when they go out. But I have never used a parallelogram model, so I can't offer a comparison.

I upgraded from knives to a Byrd head years ago. For the type of work I do, it was worth every penny. I use a lot of exotic hardwoods, and jointer knives can leave alarmingly deep divots. We have all heard people say you only need helical cutters on the show side, but a lot of pieces feature 2 show sides. They say joint, plane, flip it over and plane again. Well, that expensive piece of birdseye maple you just resawed will be about zero inches thick when you plane the divots your jointer knives left. So for that kind of work, the helix excels.

If you are making face frames all the time (just an example), or using species less prone to tear-out, get the knives.