Posts: 120
Threads: 0
Joined: Jun 2006
Need some guidance on a recent LT18 I brought home that was wired at the previous site for 230. My shop is wired for 220 and the plug is very different. Is it a matter of only switching out plugs or is there something else I need to be looking for on the machine to change the wiring as well? Don't want to blow the motor on this new (to me) bandsaw.
Thanks!
Eric Bruns
Licensed Psychologist
Aspiring amateur woodworker
Posts: 4,814
Threads: 1
Joined: Jan 2004
Location: Eugene, OR
10-12-2021, 09:18 PM
(This post was last modified: 10-12-2021, 10:30 PM by Aram.)
(10-12-2021, 08:48 PM)EricBruns Wrote: Need some guidance on a recent LT18 I brought home that was wired at the previous site for 230. My shop is wired for 220 and the plug is very different. Is it a matter of only switching out plugs or is there something else I need to be looking for on the machine to change the wiring as well? Don't want to blow the motor on this new (to me) bandsaw.
Thanks!
First, AC voltage goes up and down, (sine wave) and you can refer to the amount it oscillates using different conventions. 220 is 230 is 340V.
There are different types of plugs. I am a twist lock fan, but that's just me. And within those different types, there are versions rated for different amperages (current ratings). Don't use a 20A plug and receptacle for a tool that will draw 30A. The other way around is fine.
Find out how much current your tool can draw (should be in the specs). Look up the receptacle type you have at your new place. See if it has a sufficient current rating. if it does, yes, just replace the plug to match. If it doesn't, get an electrician to upgrade it.
Best,
Aram, always learning
"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Web: My woodworking photo site
Posts: 29,152
Threads: 1
Joined: Aug 2002
(10-12-2021, 08:48 PM)EricBruns Wrote: Need some guidance on a recent LT18 I brought home that was wired at the previous site for 230. My shop is wired for 220 and the plug is very different. Is it a matter of only switching out plugs or is there something else I need to be looking for on the machine to change the wiring as well? Don't want to blow the motor on this new (to me) bandsaw.
Thanks!
You need to determine your machine's amperage rating and determine the correct plug combination wiring size for the machine to the breaker based on the machine not your shop wiring. The 220 230/240 is irrelevant in the factoring for wiring size and breaker size.
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
Posts: 1,934
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2008
I would check the data plate on the motor, but in my experience 220v , 230v, and 240v would be interchangeable on a motor like yours. There are dozens of "NEMA plug and receptacle configurations" rated for 250v.You most likely need one of these that match your receptacle. This is assuming its amperage is correct for the motor. You probably need only 20 amps (12ga wire and 20a dbl. pole breaker) but if I already had a bunch of 240v, 30a circuits with 30a receptacles already in my shop, I wouldn't hesitate putting a 30a cord cap on my new band saw.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
Posts: 120
Threads: 0
Joined: Jun 2006
Thanks y'all! I'll get the manual out first thing I get home today and check it out. Had a trip to Lowe's already planned for getting some finishing supplies and will likely get my plug as well. Appreciate the experience that you share so easily!
Eric Bruns
Licensed Psychologist
Aspiring amateur woodworker
Posts: 16,604
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 2002
Location: Ra-cha-cha, NY
(10-12-2021, 08:48 PM)EricBruns Wrote: Need some guidance on a recent LT18 I brought home that was wired at the previous site for 230. My shop is wired for 220 and the plug is very different. Is it a matter of only switching out plugs or is there something else I need to be looking for on the machine to change the wiring as well? Don't want to blow the motor on this new (to me) bandsaw.
While US voltage has been standardized at 120/240V 60Hz for many many decades, any 60Hz motor rated 220-240V will work just fine. 220V is common on import motors, while 230V is the standard for US-built NEMA compliant motors.
That Laguna has a 5 hp motor I believe, and should run on a 30A circuit. So it should have a NEMA 6-30 plug on it, rated 30A at 250V, single-phase. Two wires plus ground (no neutral). If it has something else, you need to investigate.
Tom
“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
Posts: 1,996
Threads: 1
Joined: Aug 2016
(10-13-2021, 06:58 AM)EricBruns Wrote: Thanks y'all! I'll get the manual out first thing I get home today and check it out. Had a trip to Lowe's already planned for getting some finishing supplies and will likely get my plug as well. Appreciate the experience that you share so easily!
Don't forget the matching receptacle also. If it comes with a plug just get the receptacle . The manual will say what the circuit requirements are. Roly
Posts: 9,459
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2004
I have a MM20 on a L6-30 plug, on a 30 amp circuit, and L6-30R. Romex is 10ga.
I use L6-30s for all my sub 30amp tools. Bought plugs and receptacles in bulk.
Glad its my shop I am responsible for - I only have to make me happy.
Posts: 16,604
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 2002
Location: Ra-cha-cha, NY
10-13-2021, 10:48 AM
(This post was last modified: 10-13-2021, 11:28 AM by TDKPE.)
(10-12-2021, 08:48 PM)EricBruns Wrote: Need some guidance on a recent LT18 I brought home that was wired at the previous site for 230. My shop is wired for 220 and the plug is very different.
This has been nagging my brain - it's possible it's a three-phase motor, which will have 4 blades (three hots and an equipment ground). Plug would be either a 15-20P or a 15-30P, as a 5 hp three-phase only requires a 20A circuit at 240V. That saw is available new with either a single-phase or a three-phase motor.
That, or it's a twistlock like BloomingtonMike has, or it's both twist-lock and three-phase. If it's single-phase but with a twist-lock plug (L6-30P), it's an easy change to the straight blade equivalent (6-30P).
Edit: OR, it's a 30A dryer plug (NEMA 10-30P or 14-30P). Or a 50A range plug (NEMA 10-50P or 14-50P). Or something even more inappropriate.
You really need to tell us what the motor nameplate says, or post a picture of it. What the manual says may or may not be relevant, as the motor could have been replaced, and the manual may cover both types of motors. The motor nameplate will tell you everything you need to know.
Tom
“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
Posts: 1,996
Threads: 1
Joined: Aug 2016
(10-13-2021, 10:48 AM)TDKPE Wrote: This has been nagging my brain - it's possible it's a three-phase motor, which will have 4 blades (three hots and an equipment ground). Plug would be either a 15-20P or a 15-30P, as a 5 hp three-phase only requires a 20A circuit at 240V. That saw is available new with either a single-phase or a three-phase motor.
That, or it's a twistlock like BloomingtonMike has, or it's both twist-lock and three-phase. If it's single-phase but with a twist-lock plug (L6-30P), it's an easy change to the straight blade equivalent (6-30P).
Edit: OR, it's a 30A dryer plug (NEMA 10-30P or 14-30P). Or a 50A range plug (NEMA 10-50P or 14-50P). Or something even more inappropriate.
You really need to tell us what the motor nameplate says, or post a picture of it. What the manual says may or may not be relevant, as the motor could have been replaced, and the manual may cover both types of motors. The motor nameplate will tell you everything you need to know.
If it is a different motor from original you need to check the overloads in the starter also. If it turns out to be 3 phase that is very different issue. Roly
|
