Posts: 2
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 2021
10-17-2021, 08:54 PM
Posts: 12,907
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
10-18-2021, 12:49 PM
(This post was last modified: 10-18-2021, 12:50 PM by jteneyck.)
The top looks like maple to me, especially the area where I see curly grain, so maybe the whole table is maple? In any case, you haven't gotten all the finish and/or stain off the top yet. There are strippers specifically made for removing stain and I'd try one of them before sanding or scraping it.
Matching the finish of the new leaves, and aprons?, to the base won't be easy. That finish was likely a spray no wipe stain or a lacquer toner, and then a clearcoat. Unless you have a lot of experience in those areas I would go a different route and consider making the top a different color, either stained/dyed wood, or painted. A dark stain or paint would eliminate having to do a lot more prep work on the top.
John
Posts: 2
Threads: 0
Joined: Oct 2021
(10-18-2021, 12:49 PM)jteneyck Wrote: The top looks like maple to me, especially the area where I see curly grain, so maybe the whole table is maple? In any case, you haven't gotten all the finish and/or stain off the top yet. There are strippers specifically made for removing stain and I'd try one of them before sanding or scraping it.
Matching the finish of the new leaves, and aprons?, to the base won't be easy. That finish was likely a spray no wipe stain or a lacquer toner, and then a clearcoat. Unless you have a lot of experience in those areas I would go a different route and consider making the top a different color, either stained/dyed wood, or painted. A dark stain or paint would eliminate having to do a lot more prep work on the top.
John
Thanks for the excellent advice! I used a orange gel stripper (overnight)(wrapped with plastic) then used another stripper/restorer with steel wool - I think what you see is embedded/absorbed beyond the surface. I failed to mention, I put a clear wood conditioner on it just before taking the photo like an person - then I came here after giving it some thought. In the end, I think you are right! I don't have the expereince. I will do as you suggest! Much appreciated.
Posts: 1,289
Threads: 0
Joined: Sep 2012
Location: Mobile, Alabama
Have you considered applying a new plastic laminate top. Considering your limited experience, it would be relatively easy to do and you should be able to find a faux wood grain to match perfectly. In addition, in the end, the surface would be bomb proof. This would be good for the leaves you are making as they will get banged around some.
Posts: 1,407
Threads: 2
Joined: Jun 2003
10-20-2021, 09:48 AM
(This post was last modified: 10-20-2021, 09:50 AM by rwe2156.)
Before you do more stripping, you might try some *careful* scraping. What's left on there might come off fairly easy.
The table isn't worth enough to re-veneer, but that's a viable option.
Be careful, you might screw it up beyond salvation.... wink, wink, wink...........................
Posts: 5,845
Threads: 0
Joined: Apr 2003
If it were mine, I’d paint the base, strip the top and then use an analine dye like Transtint to color the top. Analine dye does very well on maple and birch. Matching the finish to the base will be a PITA, IMO.
Posts: 3,859
Threads: 0
Joined: Nov 2000
The frame on that table appears to be glazed. It’s possible that the top was finished the same way. I doubt the finishing regimen was taken as far with the frame as it was on the top. The top may have been shot with toners. It’s just not possible to know from the photographs. You can see dark areas on those extension rails where the top (and a leaf) were shot with some colored material. Was that the original stain, or a toner? I don’t know. Without seeing it in the flesh I’m holding off concrete conclusions. This is an advanced project.