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I understand your "client" has indicated a design preference, however, if the top was a single piece that slid back on runners items on the "desk" could remain in place (vs. clearing the top to access the keyboard.) This might be helpful if he's using a monitor to display sheet music.
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(10-27-2021, 07:45 PM)marcb Wrote: Barrel hinges push into a hole on both side and are completely invisible when closed.
Would barrel hinges be able to handle the weight of the desktop? I was under the impression they are typically used for lighter-duty applications. I suppose Soss hinges could do the trick. I don't think I'm quite there yet in terms of skills to do a great job with either of these hinges.
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10-28-2021, 08:33 AM
(This post was last modified: 10-28-2021, 08:34 AM by DaveR1.)
(10-27-2021, 05:23 PM)sweetverve Wrote: I've gone through multiple design versions already
including one where the the top slides back into the stationary piece, one where the entire top lifts up, like a trunk lid, etc. The client (aka my son) has expressed his preference for this version, so I would like to attempt making it.
Understood. The client wants what the client wants. I had to have a think about it anyway. I came up with a different idea. Probably a waste or time but I'll show it to you since it's sketched out. Barrel (Soss) hinges between the two top sections, common butt hinges or piano hinge between front top section and the front flap. Lid stays to prevent the whole thing from hinging too far back. Could use some embedded rare earth magnets to keep the three parts "clicked" together when hinged up.
https://flic.kr/p/2mET7ZX
An alternative that came to mind while typing is to put the keyboard on a slide-out arrangement and shift the seam between top parts back. That would give access to the controls on on the keyboard. You could omit the hinge between front flap and the front part of the top, add a small cleat on the underside of the top and have a music stand when it's open. The keyboard might only need to come out 5 or 6 inches.
https://flic.kr/p/2mEKGHC
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Playing around a little more to avoid real work, here's an animation showing another option.
https://flic.kr/p/2mEUvGU
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(10-28-2021, 08:33 AM)DaveR1 Wrote: Understood. The client wants what the client wants. I had to have a think about it anyway. I came up with a different idea. Probably a waste or time but I'll show it to you since it's sketched out. Barrel (Soss) hinges between the two top sections, common butt hinges or piano hinge between front top section and the front flap. Lid stays to prevent the whole thing from hinging too far back. Could use some embedded rare earth magnets to keep the three parts "clicked" together when hinged up.
https://flic.kr/p/2mET7ZX
An alternative that came to mind while typing is to put the keyboard on a slide-out arrangement and shift the seam between top parts back. That would give access to the controls on on the keyboard. You could omit the hinge between front flap and the front part of the top, add a small cleat on the underside of the top and have a music stand when it's open. The keyboard might only need to come out 5 or 6 inches.
https://flic.kr/p/2mEKGHC
Dave, I so appreciate you taking the time to make these! I, too, am avoiding doing actual work and instead am pondering this build. I've gone through about 20 designs, including the ones you have pictured. There are certainly quite a few ways to flip up the top part of the desk to reveal the keyboard. I was aiming for something that could be done in a single motion (maybe even with a servo drive?) instead of having multiple flip-up/fold-over/retract steps. Also, having the open lid tilted back at an angle allows it to be used as a music rest (I'll probably attach a narrow ledge to the underside of the stationary piece that will protrude out just a bit when desk is open.) The keyboard controls are minimal, and are very close to the keys themselves, so they will be accessible in the current configuration.
As inspiration, I happened across this Roland Kiyola piano, which has yet another way of raising the lid - gliding along grooves cut into the side walls.
https://www.roland.com/global/products/kiyola_kf-10/
I actually even considered using cabinet hinges that are meant for horizontal kitchen bifold uppers.
https://www.blum.com/su/en/ideas/cabinet...ventos-hf/
Back to reality...
I think I need to bite the bullet and put in Soss hinges between the top 2 panels. Can't think of anything else that would give me a seamless look at the top so that it can be used a desk.
And then a piano hinge for the flap...or maybe just a few butt hinges. I'm hoping to minimize the gap between the green and blue panels when the lid is down. Maybe there are some specialty hinges I'm not considering here? Door flap hinges, or butler hinges, or....
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You could make a tambour top with thick slats so they are stiff enough to use as a desktop.
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(10-27-2021, 07:38 PM)barryvabeach Wrote: Soss hinges would work great for the blue to orange parts. They can be expensive, and very fiddlly to install ( it really helps to have a router the dimensions of the mortise are pretty demanding ) but when you get them right, they will be completely hidden when the lid is closed. The come in different sizes based on the thickness of the top . I haven't used this vendor, but they seem to have the specs available for download https://www.epivots.com/soss-204.aspx?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&adpos=&scid=scplp1991&sc_intid=1991&gclid=Cj0KCQjw8eOLBhC1ARIsAOzx5cF5BHFKEaiKJ3giyQlGicEmd_JKkdRZ5cK2B9XAqqpP3_Ey1J34wysaAu1vEALw_wcB
how to install
This. Soss hinges work great if you install them properly. All different sizes available.
Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things. -- G. Carlin
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Back to reality...
I think I need to bite the bullet and put in Soss hinges between the top 2 panels. Can't think of anything else that would give me a seamless look at the top so that it can be used a desk.
Agreed, just make a few sample mortises till you get the fit just right.
And then a piano hinge for the flap...or maybe just a few butt hinges. I'm hoping to minimize the gap between the green and blue panels when the lid is down. Maybe there are some specialty hinges I'm not considering here? Door flap hinges, or butler hinges, or....
Either butler or butt hinges will work fine on the underside - again, install on a set on a small cutoffs and make whatever adjustments are necessary to get the gap to disappear, then just use the same posititoning on the real piece. You may have to round over or chamfer the rear edge of the green piece to get the front face to hit the bottom of the blue piece without a gap, but you can work that out on practice pieces.