12-11-2021, 04:17 PM
"Ripping a perfect, wide board into narrow pieces in order to flatten it on a jointer is as worse as painting a walnut tabletop. I've seen it offered as a "solution" in social media. I have never done it and I'll never do it."
I agree, and you can get up to about 9" through a 6" jointer with the method I mentioned earlier. It adds a couple of steps, but not too bad.
"Don't crosscut boards to their final lengths in the dimensioning stage. Always leave the rough board's ends as is until after the board is planed. Most lunchbox thickness planers will cause snips, even tiny ones. Often, the snips are trimmed away when the rough ends are squared."
It took me a while to learn to prevent snipe, but it is easier to handle shorter boards rather than an 8' or 10' board on the jointer. I typically cut all of the boards at least 1" longer than final length. A little bit more if it's a waxed in. This way the ends are square with the final dimensioned board. This isn't enough to cut off any snipe though.
"Removing the diagonal high points on a twisted board with a handplane will greatly reduce the no. of passes whether one uses a jointer or a planer/sled to handle them."
This is a great idea!
"But many woodworkers don't even have a decent handplane."
I resemble that remark. I only have a couple of cheapo block planes. Is a number 4 or 4 1/2 enough for this task? It's been on my list.
I agree, and you can get up to about 9" through a 6" jointer with the method I mentioned earlier. It adds a couple of steps, but not too bad.
"Don't crosscut boards to their final lengths in the dimensioning stage. Always leave the rough board's ends as is until after the board is planed. Most lunchbox thickness planers will cause snips, even tiny ones. Often, the snips are trimmed away when the rough ends are squared."
It took me a while to learn to prevent snipe, but it is easier to handle shorter boards rather than an 8' or 10' board on the jointer. I typically cut all of the boards at least 1" longer than final length. A little bit more if it's a waxed in. This way the ends are square with the final dimensioned board. This isn't enough to cut off any snipe though.
"Removing the diagonal high points on a twisted board with a handplane will greatly reduce the no. of passes whether one uses a jointer or a planer/sled to handle them."
This is a great idea!
"But many woodworkers don't even have a decent handplane."
I resemble that remark. I only have a couple of cheapo block planes. Is a number 4 or 4 1/2 enough for this task? It's been on my list.
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