Curious mind wants to know -- Do you buy or make fences

[Handplanesandmore]

for your tools?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7SrXjscNlro&t=1s

If buy, why? (Not counting the fence that comes with your purchase.)

Simon

[mike4244]

for your tools?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7SrXjscNlro&t=1s

If buy, why? (Not counting the fence that comes with your purchase.)

Simon

Usually a straight edge clamped will do as a quick fence for me. Years ago I made a fence for a 9" Rockwell  contractors saw that my father-inlaw had.
He got the saw from his father, no fence came with it.
I made him a fence from aluminum angle, plate , 2"x3"rectangular hollow stock and bar stock. I don't recall exact dimensions but will try from memory.
30" rectangle for fence  , 1/2" x 6" x 8" plate to connect fence to rail. 30" 3"x3" x 1/4" rail. The fence was bolted to the plate. The plate and fence attached rode on rail with teflon or something like it for pads under the plate and also on the far end of the rail. These were about 3/32" thick and made the fence slide smoothly. I placed two pieces of 3/4" scraps of steel in the miter slot for temporary alignment of he fence before bolting it to the plate. I locked the plate on the rail with a 1/2" steel bolt thru a threaded square stock under the  plate. I eventually cut the length of the bolt shorter to accomadate a brass slug. This prevented the bolt from denting the aluminum . I added an aluminum knurled knob to the bolt at a later date.
The fence was bolted to the 1/2" thick plate stock with one bolt. Then checked for square again and added aluminum angles bolted to the plate and the fence while checking to make sure nothing moved. The angles were added on both sides of the fence and another bolt added to the fence.
Once everything checked out good a few rips were tried. Satisfied that the fence was good I thought about having the plate welded to the fence.
Welding shop advised against it as the alighnment could be compromised from the welding heat. 
Left well enough alone and the fence did its job for the next 48 years til he passed and the wife gave the saw to a neighbor that was very helpful for my inlaws in their older years.
mike

[mongo]

Um... they are blocks of wood for hand tools... I make them. At least I assume the OP was asking about hand tool fences since this is the hand tool section. On my 140 like he has there I even carved 140 R into the fence for the heck of it.

[bandit571]

Many, many years ago...a question came up on the old WOOD-on-Line Forums....about a replacement for those POS fences seen on most Job-site tablesaws....

Friend of mine had a DeWalt 10" Job Site saw....usual junk fence....

Iso. Triangle of plywood, with a factory 90 degree corner.   Hardwood cleat to ride on the fence rail, thin enough to span between the top of the rail and top of the saw...set cleat on rail, tight against the edge of the saw's top.  sit it in-line with the mitre gauge slot.   Place the plywood on the cleat, align the long leg along the slot..2 short screws to attach it to the cleat.   Next, a 1 x 3 was screwed down along the long edge, flush with the edge of the plywood...maybe a pass with a plane to clean that up..

   
Depending on YOUR saw...you can clamp it to either the old fence rail....or, in my saw, to the top of the saw.   I add a piece of 1/4" plywood  under the fence as a zero clearance overlay....

Also, this can be clamped to about any wood panel...laid out for use with either a router, or the circular saw to guide the cut....I can also clamp this to the old SKIL router table as a fence.  

Takes 3 pieces of scrap lumber, maybe a 1/2 dozen screws.   No glue was used..in case I ever need to replace a part...or, make a taller fence...

I made a jig, to hold a panel vertical...the jig can slide along the top edge of that fence....keeps me fingers out of the way..

[bandit571]

Fence in use shots?

   
As a Rip fence...in this case, making a kerf cut for the D8 Rip saw to follow

   

Next..

   
My router table...

   
One use...and..

   
Sliding dovetails, anyone?   Needs a socket to slide into, right?

   
Measure in from the edge of the base to the bit, set the fence that far from the cut lines...

   


Next...when a panel glue up needs a trim....

   
Measure in from the edge of the saw's foot plate, to the edge of the blade.   Run the saw through, by pushing in towards the fence.  Can also be set to run a router along the edge..

   
To make this into a tongue to fit into a groove, merely flip the panel over...reset the fence..run the router through again.

Not too bad, for just 3 pieces of scrap lumber, and a few screws?

[Derek Cohen]

for your tools?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7SrXjscNlro&t=1s

If buy, why? (Not counting the fence that comes with your purchase.)

Simon

Simon, I have always made fences for planes for which registration aids in keeping them vertical …







With an angled sub-fence it is possible to plane sliding dovetails on the Small Plow …



… using a skew blade (this one is from a Stanley #46 …



Regards from Perth

Derek

[Handplanesandmore]

"With an angled sub-fence it is possible to plane sliding dovetails on the Small Plow …"

That's interesting!

Simon

[Derek Cohen]

"With an angled sub-fence it is possible to plane sliding dovetails on the Small Plow …"

That's interesting!

Simon

http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMadeToo...lPlow.html

Regards from Perth

Derek