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This is for my Southwire multimeter. The fuse on the DC side is blown; a continuity check with a cheapie multimeter confirms that the fuse is bad.
Link to fuse
I can't find any fuses that match the size and spec, except on the manufacturer's web site (linked). The problem is the cost; fuse is $6.29 with $25 shipping. The multimeter itself was less than $40 new.
The fuse is an odd spec: 1/4" by 1" (6.4mm x 25.4mm), 600V, 10A.
I've looked at Grainger as well as Amazon and any of the other easily-found online vendors.
Any hints/help appreciated.
Ray
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01-11-2022, 10:05 AM
(This post was last modified: 01-11-2022, 10:06 AM by TDKPE.)
That is an odd duck. The 1" LOA is a problem, as most of them are 1-1/4" LOA. My DMMs use an 11A fuse for 10A measurement (expensive little devils, too), which I would consider for yours too, but the length is a tough one.
Tom
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(01-11-2022, 10:05 AM)TDKPE Wrote: That is an odd duck. The 1" LOA is a problem, as most of them are 1-1/4" LOA. My DMMs use an 11A fuse for 10A measurement (expensive little devils, too), which I would consider for yours too, but the length is a tough one.
The length is the spec that makes it hard, yes. I don't recall specifically right now, but I think I was able to find a 250V version.
I've considered going with a 1-1/4" length, but that lessens the contact area in the fuse end holders. How much of that can I "cheat" without causing a problem?
Ray
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01-11-2022, 11:00 AM
(This post was last modified: 01-11-2022, 11:00 AM by TDKPE.)
(01-11-2022, 10:43 AM)R Clark Wrote: The length is the spec that makes it hard, yes. I don't recall specifically right now, but I think I was able to find a 250V version.
I've considered going with a 1-1/4" length, but that lessens the contact area in the fuse end holders. How much of that can I "cheat" without causing a problem?
Are you ever going to measure current at more than 250V? I almost never measure current with a DMM cut into the circuit at all except for some controls work, but then it's down in the mA or low single digit amp range (1200 mA typically for a max on hydraulic pump and motor coil current at 12V, but half that for 24V, which is most of them for my work).
And for that matter, if the contacts and fuse are very clean (use contact cleaner), then I would seriously look into the longer fuse if it will fit. Low current with reduced contact area is probably not going to cause inaccuracies to worry about, but then, I haven't tested that.
Even HD sells 10A 600V fast blow DMM fuses that are close, though 1/4" too long.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-...81-_-N&
Tom
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250V is as high as I have seen at our normal suppliers (Digikey, Mouser etc)
https://www.amazon.com/Bussmann-AGX-10-F...B0078RDA8M
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There ya go. Perfect. Just watch the voltage so you don't explode it.
Tom
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01-11-2022, 12:47 PM
(This post was last modified: 01-11-2022, 12:55 PM by Willyou.)
Question: Could one just wrap some thin brass shimstock around one end so that it wraps around the some of the glass as well as the metal end? That way the holder would have more contact.
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Multimeter Fuse 10A, 25.4mm x 6.3mm F10A 600V Ceramic Replacement Fuse | eBay[url=https://www.ebay.com/itm/333733626539][/url]
About $10 including shipment from UK
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(01-11-2022, 11:00 PM)HandyDandy Wrote: Multimeter Fuse 10A, 25.4mm x 6.3mm F10A 600V Ceramic Replacement Fuse | eBay[url=https://www.ebay.com/itm/333733626539][/url]
About $10 including shipment from UK
Well there ya go!
Tom
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(01-11-2022, 11:00 PM)HandyDandy Wrote: Multimeter Fuse 10A, 25.4mm x 6.3mm F10A 600V Ceramic Replacement Fuse | eBay[url=https://www.ebay.com/itm/333733626539][/url]
About $10 including shipment from UK
Hmmm...never thought to look on eBay! Thanks.
Only thing I wonder is if I'll get charged a foreign currency fee for the transaction. I'll have to look into that.
Makes me wonder why this is so hard to find in the U.S. Oh well....
Ray
(formerly "WxMan")
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