(01-31-2022, 10:34 AM)rwe2156 Wrote: I second what CStan said.
Can you get SYP? The 2x12 rip works well with it.
Any sawmills around?
Cstan, gave good advice on gluing up the Hem Fir & not to worry about the MC of Hem Fir at 12-15% titebond works no problem but above 16% Titebond says glue may never dry & to use polyurethane glue above 16%. MC was my concern with the DF avaible to me but because it's drying out so fast it got me thinking of scraping the Hem Fir. I didn't want to get into using a polyurethane glue.
There are a few sawmills around but I haven't considered them as source. I'm headed back to town today to look again at the DF lumber.
Thanks
(01-31-2022, 09:43 AM)2link2 Wrote: Another thought I have is on the glue up is, I was taught years ago to glue 100% meaning apply glue to both surfaces and I've always done this but have never glued up such a large job with so much surface area. I'm wondering for those that have glued up these thick tops how did you do it ?
Also the open time on Titebond says it's about 10 minutes were you able to get your entire bench glued up and start clamping in 10 or 15 minutes ? Maybe using a roller & just applying glue to one face it would be possible to start clamping in that time.
The open time on the Titebond exterior glue is way too short for a big glue up like this. I would buy a gallon of Titebond Extend.
Just remember that after you build a bench, you will want to build another bench.
My first bench I glued up 2x4s with lightweight pony clamps. I did not square the edges as the little valleys in the top caused by the rounded 2x4 corners always bothered me.
My second bench I used 2x10 or 2x12 southern yellow pine. I ripped it, jointed each face, cleaned each face with acetone (cleans off SYP sap), and used Titebond Extend, spread with a little plastic notched spreader. I used the smallest notches, which were almost too big. I've also heard you can use a hacksaw blade as a spreader. I glued about two joints at a time. I work slowly enough that there was plenty of time for the wood to acclimate between steps.
Finally, if you are dead set on a Roubo bench, that's fine. However a Nicholson bench is much faster and cheaper to build. If I were building my first bench, I would build a Nicholson bench. The plans in the original Schwarz book were unnecessarily complicated. The Naked Woodworker has great instruction on building it. With that bench you don't even have to glue up the top!
You’ll be fine. No special glue is required for this. Dry fit and practice clamp. That helps me speed things up so I’m not messing around with the clamps.
The trick with titebond is that you need pretty high clamp pressures to develop bond strength. That also means lots of clamps. For an 8’ glue up, I typically use 8-10 clamps. If you use pony type pipe clamps, you need to think about at least a gallon of milks worth of force on the handle of the clamp. Maybe a little more if I recall. Beyond that, you’ll start crushing the wood. It’s a good grunt. Kudos if you can get that same force applied at every clamp. I loose clamp, align, the add torque to each clamp from one end to the other and then back again. Bringing the torque up slowly is best and watch for squeeze out. Glue on one surface only is fine, but try to cover the surface - no dry spots. I use my finger.
Don't even try to glue the entire top at once, not going to end well.
Either glue 3-4 boads at a time and then re-glue 2 sections at a time or start with 3 boards add 2 or 3 more at a time until its finished.
I only glue 1 side, use a disposable touch up roller, soak in water, rinse and dry between glue-ups. Pay attenion to the glue soaking in, apply more if needed, you want good coverage, not excess running all over place.
SW has some nice throwaway rollers for 5 bux, strongly suggest those. They have a
metal handle, the flimsy plastic ones will be a pita.
I would use regular titebond. Go to the dollar store, buy a re-fillable condiment bottle, throw the bottle away (it will split on you), use the top on the titebond bottle. Fits perfectly and you don't have to mess with the crappy valve on the glue bottle.
Ed, can you tell me what SW stands for in your post?
...Naval Aviators, that had balz made of brass and the size of bowling balls, getting shot off the deck at night, in heavy seas, hoping that when they leave the deck that the ship is pointed towards the sky and not the water.
(02-04-2022, 02:35 PM)EdL Wrote: Don't even try to glue the entire top at once, not going to end well.
Either glue 3-4 boads at a time and then re-glue 2 sections at a time or start with 3 boards add 2 or 3 more at a time until its finished.
I only glue 1 side, use a disposable touch up roller, soak in water, rinse and dry between glue-ups. Pay attenion to the glue soaking in, apply more if needed, you want good coverage, not excess running all over place.
SW has some nice throwaway rollers for 5 bux, strongly suggest those. They have a
metal handle, the flimsy plastic ones will be a pita.
I would use regular titebond. Go to the dollar store, buy a re-fillable condiment bottle, throw the bottle away (it will split on you), use the top on the titebond bottle. Fits perfectly and you don't have to mess with the crappy valve on the glue bottle.
Last, stop overthinking it....
Ed
I went for it a few days ago, glued up 9 boards, 20 clamps ! 6 were used for cleats to keep boards flush (wanted to minimize planing of top). Applied glue to one face only used small squeeze bottle & silicone roller. 2nd glue up was 7 boards to the 1st 9. I didn't want to possibly glue up a twisted top and end up hand planing a lot. So made this jig seemed like great idea haven't seen this before so probably redundant. But top came out great it couldn't be any flatter & it only took a few minutes with a jack plane to get bottom ready for leg layout.
The 2x4 jig was screwed to the floor cleats were screwed to 2x4's and shimmed perfectly flat &
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haven't seen this before so probably redundant. But top came out great it couldn't be any flatter & it only took a few minutes with a jack plane to get bottom ready for leg layout.