cutting a curved rebate
#11
Quote:Hi. I'd like to make an elliptical frame for a piece of glass that will be the top of a coffee table. The glass would fit into a rebate cut into the inside edge of the frame. I could cut that rebate with a router, but I'd prefer to do it by hand. This would be like cutting the ledge for edge banding on a guitar, only much larger. If folks could recommend a technique for doing this I'd appreciate it. It needs to come out very clean as it will show. Thanks. -Howard
Quote:[url=https://sawmillcreek.org/posthistory.php?p=3181416][/url]
Reply
#12
Use a pin-type marking gage to score. Score, remove waste, repeat. 

Watch not to work upgrain when scoring. 

I'd use a router after scoring.  What I've found acceptable in the past. If you're an anti-electron fanatic, make a scratch stock.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
Reply
#13
Boat builders do this all the time, and will often use a gouge after marking the limits of the rebate/rabbet to remove the bulk of the waste, before refining it with chisels.
Reply
#14
Interesting question. Here is an excerpt from LN website on the use of their large router plane for curved work: I've never tried it but it might be worth a shot?

'Use the fence to guide the tool along an edge — the concave end of the fence is for curved work."
Reply
#15
The issue with rebating on a curve or circle/ellipse is that the grain will limit what you want to do. There is the danger of it running out, running in, as well as sections where it is benign.

To prevent spelching or breaking out, the boundary lines must be distinct. Cut the wood fibres with a knife. Create a knife wall. Use a chisel to get down to the depth of the knife line. Work it progressively deeper. If you finish with a router plane, take very light cuts. Watch the grain direction.

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
Reply
#16
Thanks everyone.  Unfortunately the project is on hold.  I realized that the piece of glass I have as a bull nosed edge.  If I set it in a rebate the curve of the bull nose and the straight wall of the rebate will come together and leave a groove open which will look lousy and collect dirt in it.  So, back to the drawing board...  Again, thanks.  -Howard
Reply
#17
Not covering the edge of the glass at all?  I think you should have a little applied ovolo or the like.

The tool you want is a coach or carriage makers router. It looks like a spoke shave, but has a fence and a blade like a router.
Reply
#18
Hi Adam

You are referring to a croze. I raised this on another forum. It occurred to me then that barrels are made of staves, and that this would involve short sections of cross grain. I imagine that run out would not be an issue in that situation. The rebate on an oval or round made of a single piece would not be as friendly.

Regards from Perth

Derek
Articles on furniture building, shop made tools and tool reviews at www.inthewoodshop.com
Reply
#19
Seems to me, a Stanley No. 71 or 71-1/2 would work...after a CUTTING gauge was run along the edge....

Or, just chuck up a piloted Rebate bit into a router...and let the bearing follow the curves...
Show me a picture, I'll build a project from that
Reply
#20
(03-13-2022, 08:34 AM)Derek Cohen Wrote: Hi Adam

You are referring to a croze. I raised this on another forum. It occurred to me then that barrels are made of staves, and that this would involve short sections of cross grain. I imagine that run out would not be an issue in that situation. The rebate on an oval or round made of a single piece would not be as friendly.

Regards from Perth

Derek

Derek,

A Cooper's Croze is different from a carriage makers plane. Its similar in some ways, but I think the face it rests on and the face it indexes its fence to are opposite the carriage makers plane. A croze rests on the end grain of the barrel staves and cuts, really a dado, some distance in from the end of the barrel. I think the blades are sometimes like little coarse veneer saws.

A Coachmaker's Plane/router is really like a spoke shave, but has an adjustable fence and a blade like an OWT router. It rests on the face of the board with its fence indexing on the curved edge.

Honestly, I think I've never used either tool, so I may be dead wrong. You can google these. Don't confuse the really short curved soled planes also called carriage makers planes (?) for this spoke shave looking thing.

One of the things I love about working wood by hand are the shapes you can make when you are not constrained by machines.
Reply


Forum Jump:


Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)

Product Recommendations

Here are some supplies and tools we find essential in our everyday work around the shop. We may receive a commission from sales referred by our links; however, we have carefully selected these products for their usefulness and quality.