Posts: 196
Threads: 0
Joined: Mar 2022
Table saw picked up a 3/4" block and flung it into the overhead 8" LED tube. "It's raining glass!"
The only time I was ever hurt on a table saw was when it picked up a small block, and flung it directly into the end of my finger. I'm not sure which hurt more, the block, or the stitches.
Sometimes it's better to keep your mouth shut, and have the world think you a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt.
Posts: 12,606
Threads: 0
Joined: Aug 2003
Location: Wapakoneta, OH
Even with the mess, I'd say it was a good thing the lamp was the only thing that got hurt. You might consider those polycarbonate sleeves that slip over the fluorescent tubes, they provide a very small amount of impact resistance, but help contain the glass if the lamp does get broke....and there are lots of things in the shop that will do that.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
Posts: 12,885
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
(06-28-2022, 06:26 AM)Gregor1 Wrote: Table saw picked up a 3/4" block and flung it into the overhead 8" LED tube. "It's raining glass!"
The only time I was ever hurt on a table saw was when it picked up a small block, and flung it directly into the end of my finger. I'm not sure which hurt more, the block, or the stitches.
Let me guess. No guard.
John
Posts: 196
Threads: 0
Joined: Mar 2022
I really don't know how anyone could see what they are doing with a blade guard on. I don't think I have EVER seen anyone use one.
Sometimes it's better to keep your mouth shut, and have the world think you a fool, than to speak and remove all doubt.
Posts: 38,525
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2002
Location: East Texas
(06-28-2022, 10:20 AM)Gregor1 Wrote: I really don't know how anyone could see what they are doing with a blade guard on. I don't think I have EVER seen anyone use one.
I have a shark guard for my Excalibur overarm guard, plenty of visibility. its all clear lexan/plastic/whatever they use.
Yeah sometimes I need to move it aside for specific cut, but I use it for the vast majority of cuts.
Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away. - Philip K. Dick
Mark
Posts: 12,885
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2010
Location: Lewiston, NY
(06-28-2022, 10:20 AM)Gregor1 Wrote: I really don't know how anyone could see what they are doing with a blade guard on. I don't think I have EVER seen anyone use one.
You don't need to see the cut, but clear guards do allow you to do so. I have used a guard on my TS's w/o fail, except for dados, etc. my entire woodworking career of now, good grief, has it really been over 40 years. Well, I guess it has been, and I still have all ten digits. If you would rather not use a guard, get a SawStop or slider. There are better ways to suffer for you craft than having a completely unnecessary accident.
John
Posts: 175
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2016
(06-28-2022, 10:20 AM)Gregor1 Wrote: I really don't know how anyone could see what they are doing with a blade guard on. I don't think I have EVER seen anyone use one.
I use a blade guard whenever it's possible. Not only for safety factor of the guard, but for dust collection as well. I recently upgraded to a Harvey blade guard which covers the cutting area/blade as an upgrade from the Saw Stop guard. Not too long ago I made a guard assembly for my radial arm that helps to keep fingers away from the blade. I'm 80 years old, still have 10 full length fingers, and hope to have all 10 when I go to my grave.
Posts: 1,600
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2014
There are definitely better options than the factory guard systems...I recently picked up a Brett TS Guard from the WN Swap and Sell board, ( https://www.amazon.com/HTC-10A-L-Brett-G...B0001LQW7S)
Very happy with it. I even fabbed/mounted an extra attachment bracket so I can move the assembly to my other TS if/when necessary in less than a minute...
I only need to remove it if I am cutting extra wide boards or sheet goods...
Posts: 38,525
Threads: 0
Joined: Feb 2002
Location: East Texas
(06-28-2022, 01:02 PM)brianwelch Wrote: There are definitely better options than the factory guard systems...I recently picked up a Brett TS Guard from the WN Swap and Sell board, (https://www.amazon.com/HTC-10A-L-Brett-G...B0001LQW7S)
Very happy with it. I even fabbed/mounted an extra attachment bracket so I can move the assembly to my other TS if/when necessary in less than a minute...
I only need to remove it if I am cutting extra wide boards or sheet goods...
haven't seen the Brett before.... curious how does it work when the material hangs over the left side of the tablesaw table (like ripping a sheet of ply down the middle)? you have to remove the guard?
Reality is that which, when you stop believing in it, doesn't go away. - Philip K. Dick
Mark
Posts: 1,600
Threads: 0
Joined: Jan 2014
06-28-2022, 02:37 PM
(This post was last modified: 06-28-2022, 03:49 PM by brianwelch.)
(06-28-2022, 02:18 PM)meackerman Wrote: haven't seen the Brett before.... curious how does it work when the material hangs over the left side of the tablesaw table (like ripping a sheet of ply down the middle)? you have to remove the guard?
Correct, the device must be removed in that situation. There is a single knurled knob bolt that secures the device to the bracket. The 6" wide bracket is mounted just a hair below the top of the table surface and can remain in place.There are also 2 pins on the underside that drop snugly into holes on the bracket to align the device and prevent it from rotating....It is a tool-less removal and replacement once the bracket is mounted to the TS.
That being said, I did drill the right wing of one TS that will allow me to install the device backwards/opposite hand. The anti kickback feature is defeated, but fly away chips/chunks should be contained or at least deflected...
|
