bench build 3

[tablesawtom]

Please forgive a little of the safety stuff. I tangled with a table saw about 30 years ago and I swore I would never do it again. But My friend just lost part of a thumb and three fingers a week ago so it is kind of fresh on my mind. I do mention some of the things that I think can prevent some of it, so I thought I would also share it.

I went to the saw mill and bought about 50 BF of Ash. I also bought some hard maple, which has nothing to do with the build. I would have bought more but money and needs prevented that, It is only a 10 mile round trip form leaving work to get more so I'll stop and get more when I get more money. Doesn't that sound familiar to some of you?

   

   

I do do not climatize my wood, I think it is a waste of time , please read part 2.  Obvious, I kind of look my wood over and select the pieces I want to start on first. There are two different trains of though here though. First one is to layout or measure where to cut and then brake down the board into lengths you want. Me, I use a sled and straight line rip it. My disclaimer is that option is not available at this saw mill, and that about an $.10 extra a linear foot where it is available, which is over eighty mile away. More on straight lining latter. I straight line rip the entire board. That way even if I cut it in different lengths latter I have a straight edge to start with.

   

   

The second cut I move the board over 4 1/4 inches plus one saw kerf which is an 8th.of an inch The extra 1/4 is for material removal latter on.  the move is 4 3/8ths. The sled  and clamps stop the board from rocking or moving and the feather boards provide a rough enough surface so the saw cant get the cut off sliding. I can stop feeding anyplace in the cut an am out if the throw of the machine wen the cut is finished.  You now have your first piece of you bench top cut out This is the safest way I know of to rip a rough board on a table saw.

   

   

Okay, you are a hobbyist and you are feeling fortunate to have been able to spend your Saturday afternoon in the shop. The families demands on you for time and demands is not a good word to use. tend to take away the time you would like to devote, so shop time is some what guarded, what now)

I put a hook in the end of the board and hang it on a cable in my shop or wherever you can put it. It keeps it off the floor, it allows for air to circulate all around it ( acclimate)  You can visibly inspect it at anytime, You can write on it  as to what detail it is so when you forget what it is down the road you can find it., And most importantly it is allows the board to move and twist, take on moisture or give it off from freshly cut surfaces, and do what ever it is going to do, so that by the time you can get back to it you can use it.

   

   

The most important message that I have put out so far is that it doesn't matter what you are building. I have completed as much of the  parts that I could at the present through the roughing stages. I have not committed to any particular finished  size. I can clean( sweep the shop and get rid of any wood that is left over that I cant use) and be be ready to continue when I can, next time.

To the beginner and even the intermittent woodworker. You can build anything if you follow a few simple guidelines. And I hop this helps.

To be continued>

[tablesawtom]

I do not know what happened to this part but here it is.

Now to the safety portion. I have an outfeed table that is a littler longer than 4 foot from the back of the saw blade. I am fortunate in that it is always in place. I can cut an eight foot board and never have to worry about the other end of the board dropping. I do not have to reach over the blade to catch the ends as they come free. Therefore I can not get pulled into the blade even if the guard s off. A lot of manufactures make a roller system for the back but I prefer a solid back just out of plywood. With a little foresight, anyone should be able to make a table with hinges and some swing up legs so they can have this luxury. Protect what you can't replace, and don't forget to put slots in before hand for the runners on the miter gauges. Also much cheaper than manufactured tables. Next I built a little support table that folds up and can be put out of the way when not in use. People try to use roller stands and I did too. but they are never at the correct height or level with the saw or slid out o the way at the worst possible moment.

Now I have an outfeed table, an infeed table which also doubles as a loading station and have spent about 4 minutes getting the sled and putting the front table in place and locking it down. The infeed table comes on and off so many times that it is just routine anymore. Pleas note the feather boards, I have 2 before the saw blade to push the front of the sled against the fence. I have one behind the blade to stop every thing from coming away from the fence when the cut is finished.

But a straight line rip cut stopping a kick back is not to much of an issue because the cut off isn't very wide so it cant clamp onto the back of the blade. But the feather boards also prevent it from happening. And finally I have the guard on which also has notch fingers to stop kick back. I know some are anal about dust collection and a table saw is difficult to get it all, but it is on and I am getting every thing I can, the vac and broom will have to do the rest.

Thanks for looking Tom

[tablesawtom]

I use 4/4ths material because it is easier for an old man to work with and it gives me a greater selection of material to use. In reality it is just a few more glue joints I have to do, but I have the time. And no matter what,  people tend to to find the time to do what ever they really want to do. I am not being condescending, go for it.

But if somebody had already bought 2 x 10s at the big box, then that one will still have to go through somewhat the same process.

[Arlin Eastman]

Sorry for my ignorance but what is a straight line rip?

Also per your post 2 I am thinking there is little movement in wood that is thin per wood that is thick like bowls that are 4" or more think and right from the tree.

[tablesawtom]

Sorry for my ignorance but what is a straight line rip?

Also per your post 2 I am thinking there is little movement in wood that is thin per wood that is thick like bowls that are 4" or more think and right from the tree.

The wood in the truck doesn't show it, but not one piece hasn't edge straight enough to reference it against the fence. If you do not have a straight edge against the fence you are putting yourself in great danger of a kickback and if it is bad enough you are on your way the the emergency room. Your body could have scars that your body will remember for the rest of your life. Also people can lose fingers and such from being pulled into the blade during a kick back. 

I use a sled and cut the entire length of the board. If I need shorter lengths then I cut the boards to the lengths needed. Other people cut the board into shorter lengths and then put on a straight edge. One have to straight edge three boards instead of one.

A straight line rip is simply using, in my case, a sled, clamping a board to the sled so it can not move and putting a straight edge on a board. Any cut length wise in a board is called a rip cut  Hence ripping a board in a straight line, hence a straight line rip.

Now for people that do not know Arlin and I have been friends for several years.  I know that he has had a head injury in the line of duty defending this country. That is why I responded in the way I did, which should only be a reminder. We are both veterans of foreign wars  and I am only showing my respect.

Kiln dried wood and wood used right from tree for turning is about like apples and oranges, both are fruit. Although both wood they are processed in different ways and under different conditions.

Tom

[tablesawtom]

Sorry for my ignorance but what is a straight line rip?

Also per your post 2 I am thinking there is little movement in wood that is thin per wood that is thick like bowls that are 4" or more think and right from the tree.

Yes, you are correct about little wood movement in wood that is Kiln dried which is one inch thick. In fact the amount of moisture that is applied to wood when glue is introduced is far greater than any exchange that will occur naturally when wood is stored so it can acclimatize. Again Arlin, you tend to do more lathe work and I do it only when I have no other option. Different rules of engagement.

Tom