Epoxy for cracks in table

[OneStaple]

Hey all,

I picked up some butcher block for a decent price, and plan to use it to make an assembly table/workbench (not hardcore for hand planing, etc.). The top of my tablesaw is often my default work space, and I'd like to keep that space clear.

The butcher block (looks like maple) appears to have had a rough life, and many of the boards show gaps along the glue lines at the ends. I'm guessing that this had a decent amount of water exposure, expanding/contracting the wood and weakening the glue through time. All the glue lines (except one, maybe) seem fully structurally sound. Most of the gaps at the very ends are ~0.005"-0.015", but a couple of the worst ones get as big as 0.025".

My thought is to tape off the glue lines and fill the cracks with a low-viscosity epoxy, both to fill the cracks and strengthen the joints. Then hand plane or run them through the planer to flatten everything and clean up the surfaces. However, google searches for pourable epoxies bring back lots of results for river table type applications (often 1 gallon or more), rather than what I'm looking for. Does anyone have suggestions on a good option (that hopefully also isn't crazy expensive). I also don't think I'd need a large quantity, but I think fairly low viscosity will be key.

Yes, I know I could use the table saw to cut along each glue line, resquare everything, and glue it all back together. But that's both a lot of work and I'd lose ~2" on the width by the time everything was back together. And this doesn't exactly need to look pretty in the end.

Thanks,
Tyler

   

   

   

   

[Admiral]

Sounds like a plan to me. I can't think of any downsides.

[rlnguy]

Be sure to run a metal detector over it, if you decide to cut and reglue it.
I got a top like that from work and ripped it to the size I wanted. I wrecked the blade - the top had a bunch of steel fasteners hidden inside, and broke several teeth.

[MstrCarpenter]

loctite two part epoxy and (sometimes sold separately) their mixing syringe. The syringe goes right on the bottom of the twin tube product and by the time it gets out the end it's already mixed, in the correct proportions. The viscosity might be just a touch thick for it to seep all the way to the bottom of the small gaps without a little persuasion (i.e. plastic putty knife).

note; Unused product can be saved for later. The mixing syringe is a one time use, so if you set it down for a minute, the mixed epoxy may be set.

[5thumbs]

Hey all,

I picked up some butcher block for a decent price, and plan to use it to make an assembly table/workbench (not hardcore for hand planing, etc.). The top of my tablesaw is often my default work space, and I'd like to keep that space clear.

The butcher block (looks like maple) appears to have had a rough life, and many of the boards show gaps along the glue lines at the ends. I'm guessing that this had a decent amount of water exposure, expanding/contracting the wood and weakening the glue through time. All the glue lines (except one, maybe) seem fully structurally sound. Most of the gaps at the very ends are ~0.005"-0.015", but a couple of the worst ones get as big as 0.025".

My thought is to tape off the glue lines and fill the cracks with a low-viscosity epoxy, both to fill the cracks and strengthen the joints. Then hand plane or run them through the planer to flatten everything and clean up the surfaces. However, google searches for pourable epoxies bring back lots of results for river table type applications (often 1 gallon or more), rather than what I'm looking for. Does anyone have suggestions on a good option (that hopefully also isn't crazy expensive). I also don't think I'd need a large quantity, but I think fairly low viscosity will be key.

Yes, I know I could use the table saw to cut along each glue line, resquare everything, and glue it all back together. But that's both a lot of work and I'd lose ~2" on the width by the time everything was back together. And this doesn't exactly need to look pretty in the end.

Thanks,
Tyler


Did you consider covering with plywood? Gives a nice flat surface and, if you use screws, you can refresh it at so \me future date.

Good tip about the metal detector.

[OneStaple]

Be sure to run a metal detector over it, if you decide to cut and reglue it.
I got a top like that from work and ripped it to the size I wanted. I wrecked the blade - the top had a bunch of steel fasteners hidden inside, and broke several teeth.

Good point. The thought of imbedded fasteners did cross my mind, which is another reason I'm not eager to cut it. I know a lot of bowling lanes are full of hidden nails. I don't have a metal detector, but probably should have one.

loctite two part epoxy and (sometimes sold separately) their mixing syringe. The syringe goes right on the bottom of the twin tube product and by the time it gets out the end it's already mixed, in the correct proportions. The viscosity might be just a touch thick for it to seep all the way to the bottom of the small gaps without a little persuasion (i.e. plastic putty knife).

I think I need something less viscous than that. Keep in mind that most of the cracks are the thickness of 1-4 sheets of paper, so there's not much room to get a tool of persuasion in there. I know there are some low viscosity epoxies, but I'm not really familiar with what is decent.

Did you consider covering with plywood? Gives a nice flat surface and, if you use screws, you can refresh it at so \me future date.

Hmm, not a bad idea. I like the look of the butcher block more though (yes, that's totally opinion and not function based). And I don't anticipate using the table in a way that would require frequent redoing of the surface. I'll keep that option in mind though as I continue to think this through

Tyler

[gboot]

I’ve used epoxy resins for a few things. I made a dining table for my daughter out of 100 year old wormy chestnut. Didn’t want gravy rolling in the the holes so I filled them with this resin as well as some cracks. After mixing the resin i poured it in to a disposable syringe and used this for filling. This resin is not as thin as what is used for river tables but it ran deep in to the wood, sometimes right through to the bottom. West System G-flex. 

https://www.westmarine.com/west-system-g...23132.html

I also made a Charcuterie board in river table fashion using the poured epoxy you mentioned. It need not be purchased in gallon quantities link follows. this stuff is very thin and you would need something to contain it. I used a form and lined it with Sheathing Tape.

https://www.amazon.com/Crystal-Non-Toxic...C90&sr=8-3

[AHill]

I would run it through the planer before I used the epoxy. Cured epoxy is very hard, and might damage your planer blades. I've not tried that before. Others may have more experience with this than me.

[cams2705]

Do you have access to a band saw?  That would eliminate your concern with losing width due to kerf from cutting each joint with a table saw.

I would band saw each joint, joint each edge, and re-glue.

[OneStaple]

I’ve used epoxy resins for a few things. I made a dining table for my daughter out of 100 year old wormy chestnut. Didn’t want gravy rolling in the the holes so I filled them with this resin as well as some cracks. After mixing the resin i poured it in to a disposable syringe and used this for filling. This resin is not as thin as what is used for river tables but it ran deep in to the wood, sometimes right through to the bottom. West System G-flex. 

I also made a Charcuterie board in river table fashion using the poured epoxy you mentioned. It need not be purchased in gallon quantities link follows. this stuff is very thin and you would need something to contain it. I used a form and lined it with Sheathing Tape.

Thanks for the recommendations. I have some G-flex, but thought it might be too thick. The long cure time could help with that though. I might play with it to see if it has potential. The second option seems more in line with a low-viscosity solution that could work well. Good to know that you've used it successfully before.

I would run it through the planer before I used the epoxy. Cured epoxy is very hard, and might damage your planer blades. I've not tried that before. Others may have more experience with this than me.

I would likely remove the excess epoxy before planing with some combo of a sander, chisel, or hand planes. I know epoxy turns well on the lathe, but I don't remember power planing it before.

Do you have access to a band saw?  That would eliminate your concern with losing width due to kerf from cutting each joint with a table saw.

I would band saw each joint, joint each edge, and re-glue.

Yes, I have a bandsaw, but I'd still lose some between the cutting and jointing. And it turns this project into a lot more work for something that isn't required to look awesome. If this were indoor furniture, I'd certainly take this approach. Plus, there's still the question of embedded metal.

Tyler