See if you've a woodnetter in a reasonable distance w/ a jointer w/ sufficient capacity?
If you were closer, my new toy arrives in about 4 weeks. I'm sure you have folks w/in an hour of you that have 12" jointer capacity willing to help though.
Michael
Every day find time to appreciate life. It is far too short and 'things' happen. RIP Willem
(11-02-2022, 02:44 PM)Mike 55 Wrote: I picked up some wide cherry boards, 14 inches that will become a dresser top that will be 22 ½ wide. They are pretty flat to start with. I usually run boards through a jointer first and then a planer. My max with to joint is 8 inches. So, my question is should I:
1.Just run then through the planer as is?
2.Cut them in half on the bandsaw to keep the grain flow together and then joint, plane them and glue back together?
I’ve done option 2 before and I can always see the cut mark. If I were to just plane them, I will still need to match the grain to make a panel and cut to size. I never tried this with such a wide board. I would hate to see this warp over time.
Thanks,
Mike
If you have enough cup or twist to be problematic, but just a bit, option 3 is joint with jack or jointer plane.
Best,
Aram, always learning
"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery
11-04-2022, 05:42 AM (This post was last modified: 11-04-2022, 05:45 AM by adamcherubini.)
Mike, planing boards does nothing to ensure they will stay flat over time. Boards cup and twist for reasons that planing doesn’t solve. The reason we plane boards isn’t to guarantee their flatness. We plane so that we can assemble boards. We hope our joinery will resist the forces causing warpage.
You should be looking at the end grain to predict what these boards will do. Then orient the boards in your project in a manner that will restrain movement. Make sure to restrain in such a way as to allow for cross grain shrinkage. Given the choice, I’d rather have a little cupping than a little cracking.
Oh: when you guys start talking about router sleds, and hot melt glue that just sounds like you have something against using a hand plane. This is absolutely one of those, admittedly rare scenarios, where a hand plane will do a nicer job, faster than anything with a cord.
I’d match plane the long joint by hand, hand plane the top and bottom, and attach this top with pan hd screws through slotted holes from the bottom.
Post us a pic when you get a chance! Good luck Mike. It’s gonna be great. I love wide cherry.
(11-03-2022, 11:06 AM)Mike 55 Wrote: I have access to a wide belt sander. If I see any cup in a board can I just run it through cup side down and take lite passes? It won't take much I would think. I never tried this.
Thanks,
Mike
not familiar with wide belt sanders, but if there's rollers that apply downward pressure, i don't think this will do much, unless you use a sled like was mentioned earlier.
again, i'm not familiar with how wide belt sanders operate.
(11-04-2022, 10:57 AM)arthropod98 Wrote: not familiar with wide belt sanders, but if there's rollers that apply downward pressure, i don't think this will do much, unless you use a sled like was mentioned earlier.
again, i'm not familiar with how wide belt sanders operate.
I do not have a large plane that would be useful. At 67 and my body full of athristis using a plane would probably put me over the edge.
The wide belt sander works where the bottom is a conveyor belt. The roller above has the sand paper. If you raise is slowly it will not force the board downward. You really can't raise it too high as the sander would either stop or burn the crap out of the wood.
(11-04-2022, 07:02 PM)Mike 55 Wrote: I do not have a large plane that would be useful. At 67 and my body full of athristis using a plane would probably put me over the edge.
The wide belt sander works where the bottom is a conveyor belt. The roller above has the sand paper. If you raise is slowly it will not force the board downward. You really can't raise it too high as the sander would either stop or burn the crap out of the wood.
I know what you mean about hand planing - I love doing it, but after several hours of hand planing, I know I will feel it the next day. This Cherry board was 17" wide, so I had no choice.
(11-04-2022, 07:02 PM)Mike 55 Wrote: I do not have a large plane that would be useful. At 67 and my body full of athristis using a plane would probably put me over the edge.
The wide belt sander works where the bottom is a conveyor belt. The roller above has the sand paper. If you raise is slowly it will not force the board downward. You really can't raise it too high as the sander would either stop or burn the crap out of the wood.
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