Posts: 2,384
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2011
Agree with bandit that you don't need jig to flatten the back of a chisel. If you have a 1/16" chisel to sharpen, the LV narrow honing guide is pretty much foolproof though.
Simon
Posts: 2,333
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2006
Location: virginia beach VA
As Simon said, LV Narrow Blade Guide - is for sharpening and honing the bevel, not flattening the back. I had great difficulty getting the bevel just right freehand on narrow chisels.
Posts: 144
Threads: 1
Joined: Apr 2008
Location: NW Finger Lakes area
Thank you all! I appreciate you being there. Always good ideas & suggestions.
I cut it three times & it's still too short!
Posts: 1,407
Threads: 2
Joined: Jun 2003
03-08-2023, 01:27 PM
(This post was last modified: 03-08-2023, 01:29 PM by rwe2156.)
(03-07-2023, 04:54 PM)Handplanesandmore Wrote: Agree with bandit that you don't need jig to flatten the back of a chisel. If you have a 1/16" chisel to sharpen, the LV narrow honing guide is pretty much foolproof though.
Simon
I've heard this before and don't agree with it. #1 you can't hone just the bevel. #2 if you hone the back and its not flat, you create a back bevel.
Depends on what you're doing, but a back bevel on a chisel isn't a good idea. Don't believe me, try using a paring block for a mortise.
You still need 2 polished edges for it to be honed properly.
Posts: 2,384
Threads: 0
Joined: Dec 2011
Perhaps you've misunderstood my point. I am not saying only the bevel needs to be honed. The back of any chisel should be honed flat, but without the use of a honing jig.
Simon
Posts: 869
Threads: 0
Joined: Jun 2008
Depending on the cut, a flat back isn’t always required or advantageous. I think you should hone front to back on a fine stone and infrequently. When you need to resharpen, hone the bevel and strop the back.
I think bevel up paring is misunderstood by woodworkers and has driven us to flatten things that never needed to be flattened.
