letterbox

[BrokenOlMarine]

Yesterday's shop time was focused on hand sanding the maple inlay.  I started with 120 grit.  I slowly worked thru 220 and 325.  At 325 it looked pretty good.  Here is the inlay at 120 locked in the bench.

   



Any time I am working on a major project, I always save any offcuts until the end.  I'll use them for testing of the various finishes I might choose to use, in case I need to cut plugs to cover screws, or to cut wedges to fill gaps.  In this case, I used an offcut, sanded to the same level, to decide on Golden Oak Watco as a base, followed by Natural Watco vs. just the Natural Watco.  Both Miss Tina and I liked the Combo.  This was the test piece with the combo applied.

   



Once the decision was made, I wiped down the inlay with a damp cloth to remove all traces of dust and imperfections... then applied that base of Golden Oak.  I have found that on this Spalted Maple it really POPS the grain.  The two coats of Natural.  It will be left to dry overnight.  A coat or two of beeswax will follow.

   



Next up was the sanding and shaping of the boxes.  First off they were secured to the bench and met with the hand plane to even up those high sides.  Careful shaving got them very close.  Then I got to the sanding.  First sanding away any roughness and then to smoothing the mahogany.  Afterward, I used a molding tool to put a 1/8 roll on the upper sides and the corners, then blended the rolls with 220 grit sandpaper.  They are looking good, but after a bit more final touchup today, they should be ready for that (Pucker Factor) pass over the table saw for the separation cut to turn them into boxes with tops and bottoms.

   



We will be close to the finish, but both boxes still have work left. 
Both will need light sanding to smooth any rough edges from the passes over the Table Saw. 
The letter box has an inlay for the inside lid, The Box of Chocolates guide.  Also the divider rails for the letters.
The sewing room box is nearly done.
Then finish will be applied to both.

[BrokenOlMarine]

First up, let's take a peek at the carved leather panel for the letter box.  I did work on it yesterday.  I applied the antique fairly heavily to the panel, then let that dry a bit.  Afterwards, I worked on removing the antiquing in various places to reveal as much or as little as I wanted.  In the end I was using dampened Q-tips on the high points to buff away most of the antique to allow full color to show thru, highlighting the 3D effect.  Not perfect, but I'm happy with the result.  I then applied a couple coats of Sheen finish.  All this was done between sessions on the woodwork noted above.

   



Today was about the pucker factor work.  The first step was to take a cutoff piece of mahogany from forming the sides of the boxes, and using the dados, set the fence for the Separation cuts.  Wouldn't want to cut into the top or bottom panel.  Always pays to save the cutoffs.

   



Once the fence was set, I made the LONG cuts on the four long sides.  Next I cut spacers from the right thickness of cardboard to keep the sections from moving as the short side cuts were made.

   



The boxes were taped in such a way that the tape would NOT interfere with contact with the table saw fence during the short side cut.  With a feather board, and one hand assuring solid contact with the fence and helping to guide the box, the other hand used a push stick for safety and the short side cuts (Pucker Factor) were made.  1,2,3 and 4.  Done.

   



Now we have tops and bottoms.  Unless YOU are perfect, and your saw is even more perfect, you'll have some minor issues.
Those can be dealt with.  Between the sander and the plane, booyah... we are good.

   



Now we have boxes, and they look pretty good.  Next session, final sanding, and the additional work we discussed above.  ONLY in the final stage will the inlays be glued in.

   

[iclark]

You may have missed the part where I will cut the boxes in half and they will open and close like regular boxes... but if it's a straightforward question:

The plan is to have the bottom divided by a narrow rail laterally between each row of letters so they will stay in line.  The top will keep them from moving UP.
Inside the top when it's open, will be a guide across the top that shows the position of the letters.  My plan is to make it out of leather straps, stamped with the letters, like the guide inside a "Box of Chocolates." That way you WILL know what your gonna get. 
  As long as I put the letters back in their proper slots, I'll know where to find them the next time.

Thanks for the explanations/clarifications.

I had missed the part about cutting the sides on the TS after the cases were finished. That is why I was concerned about accessing the individual stamps in what looked like it was going to be a deep box. Catching up on the thread now is like a "Doh!" moment on my part. That middle rail in the stamp box makes lots of sense as long as you don't do what I tend to do and knock the box over.  Had you considered putting a loose piece of foam in the box to keep the letters in place when the box is closed in case you get visitors who are as clutzy as I am?

Your boxes and leatherwork have always been exceptional ever since the first time that I saw them here. You are really knocking these out of the park.

On that leather insert for the lid, either your photo-editing skills have become exceptional or you have significantly upped your leather skills. My bet is on the latter.

[BrokenOlMarine]

Thanks for the explanations/clarifications.

I had missed the part about cutting the sides on the TS after the cases were finished. That is why I was concerned about accessing the individual stamps in what looked like it was going to be a deep box. Catching up on the thread now is like a "Doh!" moment on my part. That middle rail in the stamp box makes lots of sense as long as you don't do what I tend to do and knock the box over.  Had you considered putting a loose piece of foam in the box to keep the letters in place when the box is closed in case you get visitors who are as clutzy as I am?

Your boxes and leatherwork have always been exceptional ever since the first time that I saw them here. You are really knocking these out of the park.

On that leather insert for the lid, either your photo-editing skills have become exceptional or you have significantly upped your leather skills. My bet is on the latter.

Since the injury to my wrist had prevented wood work for so long, I spent a lot of time on the leather work.  Often, when I would get bored, I would pick up an off cut or scrap of leather and practice the swivel knife techniques, or tooling. (Stamps)  I watched hours and hours of how to videos on you tube, and the best of them I watched a half dozen times each trying to pick up the small nuances that made the work so great.  In most cases?  Practice... and time.  So I put in as much practice and time as I can.

I think I have improved, and I thank folks when they tell me how good the work looks.   Then I pull up photos on the leather websites and the work looks alive, and I know how far I can go with MORE practice and time.  


Frankly, with my woodworking... I see the same thing HERE.  Some of my VERY best work pales in comparison to the beautiful joints, finishes, and creativity of our fellow craftsman here on the site.  I am inspired and humbled to share the space with them... truly.

[AHill]

Very nice work! Enjoying this thread.

[BrokenOlMarine]

We are getting close to done, so time to use a small trick.  Tooling the leather insert caused it to draw "just a bit" and the last time I laid it in it's place there was a very small gap on both sides.  The light color of the luan was peeking thru, so.... I got the black paint and carefully painted a strip down both sides of the luan.  No more peeking.

   



Next I got the leather and cut the index strips for the underside of the top.  Carefully I stamped the letters to show their relative positions in the box.  Two rows of letters, two index strips.

   



Then, the final sanding of the mahogany frames of the two boxes.  Sanding away any blemishes and blending of the corners and edges.  The sewing room box has the best grain but they both will look very nice against their inlays.  The first couple coats of natural oil were applied and then left to dry.  I had a doctors appointment.



The sewing room box....

   



The Letter Box

   




Now we cut the rails to keep the letters in place and to divide the reference strips.  Then the glue up of the inlays and the strips.
Reference pins for the tops.
Nearly Done! 

[BrokenOlMarine]

Session this morning concentrated on two goals.  Antiquing the letter reference strips and making the dividing wooden strips for the letter tray and inside cover between the reference strips.  I started with the letter reference strips now that the oil had fully dried.

   



I covered the strips completely with the antique paste, ensuring that the letters will completely filled.  I allowed the antique paste to sit for about five minutes to dye the leather a bit.  I wiped the leather off laterally to leave the letters filled, then set the strips aside and went to the woodworking bench to work on the wood dividing strips.

   

   



Then I went back to the leather bench and applied two coats of finish to the reference strips to seal in the antiquing on the letters.
We are nearly at the assembly stages... Looking forward to it.
Looking through the scrap bin, I chose a couple pieces of dark walnut off cut as accent strips and measured the height I would need for the letter tray.  I marked my dividers and scribed a line down the walnut.  It was already the thickness I wanted.  Setting up the bandsaw, I slowly and carefully cut two strips for the letter tray.  I repeated the process for the underside of the lid, to make the dividing / accent strips to go between the leather reference strips.

Once the wooden strips were cut, I sanded the sides and rolled the tops on the benchtop belt sander and then oiled them with the watco natural oil and set them aside to dry.

[BrokenOlMarine]

A session today... Assembly has begun. 


Started with the letterbox bottom.  The rails hold the letters in place, and allow space at the bottom of the box for the handles.  The walnut looks good, a proper accent.

   



Next added the reference strips and rails to the underside of the top for the box.  First I ensured the top was properly oriented so the grain matched and then the strips would be oriented when the top was opened.  Then each strip was going to be the right direction BEFORE I let the contact cement covered parts touch.  (You only make that mistake ONCE, if you are smarter than the average bear.) 
  DAMHIKT.

   



Next up?  Gluing in the top inlay.  Either way works, but I had a preference.  Check the orientation and then ensure I had the inlay right before I put IT in place. Again, check and recheck the line up before allowing the semi-dry contact cemented pieces to touch.  NO adjustment after they do.

   



The box is looking good, the grain is lined up and she just needs hinges and a latch.

   



Prior to calling this session done, I got the glue up done on the inlay for Miss T's sewing box... and got it in the clamps.  It won't get hinges or a latch, but there will be reference pins to align the lift off top.

   

[BrokenOlMarine]

Went out to the shop this morning to put the hinges on the letterbox.  I looked thru the available selection and not one of the fancy sets would handle the weight of the mahogany top.  So, I took a 3' section of brass piano hinge and cut it to length, rounded the end corners and Boom, Hinge.  Carefully, using a center punch for each screw and a drop of glue on the end of each, I installed the hinge.  Done.

   




The hinge is a bit larger than I wanted, but it's not a show piece but a working box.  A tool chest.  By larger, I don't mean wider... I mean taller.  It'll do Donkeh, It'll do.  More importantly, it's works. 

   



Other than possibly a coat of wax, that portion of this project is done.  I moved on to Miss Tina's box, and using another walnut scrap from the bin, I formed the guides to ensure the top centered each time she removed and replaced it.  Once I was happy with the results, I glued them in place.  They are clamped and the glue is setting.  In an hour or two I'll go out and oil that walnut, then let that dry.  A couple coats of beeswax and the entire project will be complete.  Up next?  Scabbard?  Gunbelt?  Knife and Sheath?  Who knows, something to stay busy.  Maybe I'll tackle framing in that wall.... 

[BrokenOlMarine]

Back out to the shop for the last phase of the two box project, finishing Miss T's sewing room box.  The glue had set, so it was time to oil the walnut guides and call this one done.
I oiled  the entire box again and it turned out great... can you say Oooh...

   



If you look closely in the picture below, you can see the walnut guides glued to the inside edges right and left, of the bottom tray of the box.  They ensure the top is aligned each time the boss puts the top back on.  She only need match the grain pattern as the top will only go on ONE way.

   



A look at the box open.  Miss T loved the box and said she though the highly figured grain of the spalted maple was the perfect compliment to the grain of the darker mahogany.
I have enjoyed this project, and like most, it started as a basic concept and I attacked it like most, with a flexible plan.  My first career required rigid adherence to protocols and structure, and it kept us safe.  I enjoy the freedom working this way though when necessary I can work from blueprints or plans.  I have even drawn them myself when the job ahead calls for them.

   



We'll color this one done.  Move on to the next, whatever that will be.  Hope it was good for you.