Help with hand planes

[ChuckHill]

@ChuckHill : that's one of the main reason i wanted a better starter plane, i have no idea what's good or not with no point of reference. as for the 2nd iron, so you're saying don't add a secondary bevel on the LA iron? why is that?

If you add a secondary bevel to the LA iron then you have a good bit to grind back to turn it back into a LA blade.  Having a dedicated blade means less grinding and a longer blade life.

I think you may be overthinking the Norris adjuster.  The LN and LV planes are both excellent and reviews tend to focus on what minor differences there are which can make them seem more important than they are in real life.  It is not that big of a deal either way.  You won't be spending much time adjusting the plane compared to actually using it.  I have both types and the Norris being a bother has never entered my mind.  Also with the BU planes the adjuster knob is below your hand so really not much different than the Stanley design.  For the bevel down planes, I can just lift my index finger up and adjust without taking my hand off of the tote.  The planes should don't be tightened down so much that it takes more than a single finger to adjust.

[ChuckHill]

A couple of other thoughts.  You might want to hold off on the router plane, depending on how you cut your joints.  If you are using a router and table saw to just M&T and dado etc, it is probably of less use as you can just finesse the machine setup.  I use hand saws and chisels, so having a router plane to refine the result is useful.

I am not much of a fan of the Paul Sellars router plane, thought the price is certainly right.  My concern is that the base is thick and the hole small thus limiting visibility on what you are doing.  Take a look at a picture of his design and the LV design with a thinner base and larger hole.

[Leandre]

If you add a secondary bevel to the LA iron then you have a good bit to grind back to turn it back into a LA blade.  Having a dedicated blade means less grinding and a longer blade life.

I think you may be overthinking the Norris adjuster.  The LN and LV planes are both excellent and reviews tend to focus on what minor differences there are which can make them seem more important than they are in real life.  It is not that big of a deal either way.  You won't be spending much time adjusting the plane compared to actually using it.  I have both types and the Norris being a bother has never entered my mind.  Also with the BU planes the adjuster knob is below your hand so really not much different than the Stanley design.  For the bevel down planes, I can just lift my index finger up and adjust without taking my hand off of the tote.  The planes should don't be tightened down so much that it takes more than a single finger to adjust.

oh i see, so you have a second iron so you don't have to mess about the first iron.. and i think you're right about Norris. I've never even touched one to even know if i do mind or not.

[Leandre]

A couple of other thoughts.  You might want to hold off on the router plane, depending on how you cut your joints.  If you are using a router and table saw to just M&T and dado etc, it is probably of less use as you can just finesse the machine setup.  I use hand saws and chisels, so having a router plane to refine the result is useful.

I am not much of a fan of the Paul Sellars router plane, thought the price is certainly right.  My concern is that the base is thick and the hole small thus limiting visibility on what you are doing.  Take a look at a picture of his design and the LV design with a thinner base and larger hole.

i see, i do use a dado stack for dados and m&t's
If Paul Sellars base is too thick and opening is too small, can't you just make the hole bigger? and the wood thinner? Either way, i decided on the Veritas router plane (if i decide to get one) i like the fact the blade part comes off and can be sharpened on its own, rather they try to sharpen the right angle but i think your right on the necessity, the dados usually come out pretty clean. ive been wrapping some 220 over a small stick of wood and running it over the surface to clean. 

i dont know if i ever want to a hand tool user but i do like the idea. its like manual drive. Right now, im in the mindset of getting a 4.5 and a block plane. most likely go with the LN or Clifton  for the 4.5 and LV for the block.

[thinshavings]

After decades of old Stanley planes I purchased a LN 5 1/2 jack and a low angle block plane last December. All I can say is should have bought them decades ago. The LN planes are like a fine Swiss watch. The Stradivarius of hand planes. Remarkable craftsmanship!

[Leandre]

ok, I want to thank everyone who has helped me on this merry-go-round of decision making matter.
I have decided to go with the Lie Nielson #4.5 and the #60-1/2 Rabbet Block Plane with Nicker.
I think these should serve my needs for the time being.
Again, thank you for the time and advice, you guys have a good weekend !!

[Leandre]

After decades of old Stanley planes I purchased a LN 5 1/2 jack and a low angle block plane last December. All I can say is should have bought them decades ago. The LN planes are like a fine Swiss watch. The Stradivarius of hand planes. Remarkable craftsmanship!

Paganini gives you a thumbs up!
i just pulled the trigger on a LN 4.5 and block plane. i'll come back here and write about my feelings when holding it for the first time lol

[iclark]

Paganini gives you a thumbs up!
i just pulled the trigger on a LN 4.5 and block plane. i'll come back here and write about my feelings when holding it for the first time lol

Please do so.


and then, follow up with your learning experiences as you learn to use them.

I ask that for 2 reasons: (1) if you have problems (possibly without even realizing it), there are people here who can help and (2) it has been a very long time since some of us first used a plane or chisel and following your progress can help us be better mentors to the youngsters in our families.

[Leandre]

Please do so.


and then, follow up with your learning experiences as you learn to use them.

I ask that for 2 reasons: (1) if you have problems (possibly without even realizing it), there are people here who can help and (2) it has been a very long time since some of us first used a plane or chisel and following your progress can help us be better mentors to the youngsters in our families.

Absolutely, These planes dont even come close to the most expensive stuff in my shop but I felt apprehension when buying but in a good way.

[bandit571]

There is a Myth floating around..about some "New in Box" planes being ready to go right out of the box....ah, no they are not..

The shipper tightens the bolt to the lever cap too tight, to prevent things from moving around during shipment...means you can NOT adjust for depth..
The shipper leaves it up to the customer to preform the final hone work...so, IF you are lacking in the skill to sharpen....the plane won't cut..

There is a Video out there, from Rex Krueger..about such planes...."$350 plane that won't cut?"  Then he shows HOW to fix it so that it at least cuts as well as his Vintage Stanley plane....

Good Luck...