Water Supply in House

[fixtureman]

The tank would cease to function long before the membrane or bladder broke down and entered the water supply. The plus for the OP is that these tanks generally do not fail catastrophically. They’ll get a pinhole and weep.

Hi Stwood - I just saw this after all these months.  I was not aware that air could be added in an effort to increase water pressure.  Can you expand on this a bit (although it does sound simple enough).  I don't think I will tackle it as I know nothing about the system.  Does a plumber or a well person (as in who installed the well and the rest of the system) do the job?  Many thanks in advance...FPT.

[lift mechanic]

It is my understanding that the pressure tank pressure should be checked when the pressure in from the well is at O psi. My pressure tank has the pressure listed next to the Shrader valve on top of the tank. Filling the pre-charge is as easy as checking and filling a car tire. The main purpose of the pressure tank is to save the well pump from cycling too often. If you turn on a faucet to use a small amount of water. The pressure tank will supply water until the pressure in the system reaches the low set point of the well pump. At that point the well pump will pump until the pressure in the tank and system is at the upper limit of the well pump is reached. If the pressure tank has 0 psi pre-charge, every time you turn on a faucet the well pump will turn on, shorting the lift of the well pump. To check the pre-charge of the pressure tank, off the power to the well pump. Turn on a faucet until the water stops flowing. Using a tire pressure gauge check the pre-charge at the top of the pressure tank. The pressure should be right at the setting the well pump normally turns ON.

[MstrCarpenter]

It is my understanding that the pressure tank pressure should be checked when the pressure in from the well is at O psi. My pressure tank has the pressure listed next to the Shrader valve on top of the tank. Filling the pre-charge is as easy as checking and filling a car tire. The main purpose of the pressure tank is to save the well pump from cycling too often. If you turn on a faucet to use a small amount of water. The pressure tank will supply water until the pressure in the system reaches the low set point of the well pump. At that point the well pump will pump until the pressure in the tank and system is at the upper limit of the well pump is reached. If the pressure tank has 0 psi pre-charge, every time you turn on a faucet the well pump will turn on, shorting the lift of the well pump. To check the pre-charge of the pressure tank, off the power to the well pump. Turn on a faucet until the water stops flowing. Using a tire pressure gauge check the pre-charge at the top of the pressure tank. The pressure should be right at the setting the well pump normally turns ON.

I set the pre-charge pressure 2-3 psi lower than the cut in pressure. The pump will turn on just before the rubber diaphragm is pressed against the bottom of the tank into the sediment. One other thing to check is that the gauge on the system will read the same as the gauge used to check the pre-charge. The one on the system may be sticking slightly or have graduations too far apart to accurately read. My inexpensive tire pressure gauge may also be off a little, which is o.k. so long as I use the same gauge for both readings. You can buy a garden hose to valve stem (schrader valve) adapter from Ace for $9, or make one with a salvaged valve stem, an end of a washing machine hose, and a hose clamp. Install this on the tank drain (before it's drained) or any nearby hose bib.

There's a lot of iron in the water around me. What I've seen more often than leaking diaphragms is a build-up of rust in the short pipe or inlet to the tank. This will cause pump short cycling too; the same as a bad tank or low (no) pre-charge. The pump is just pushing more water than it can force through an opening smaller than a pencil tip.

[Stwood_]

Turn the water well breaker off and open a faucet and let the pressure completely off. Close the faucet.
Then using the schrader valve on the tank, air it up to about 35#'s.
Turn your well breaker back on and let it build up till it shuts off. Then open a few faucets (slowly) to let the air out of your water lines.

[rwe2156]

Turn the water well breaker off and open a faucet and let the pressure completely off. Close the faucet.
Then using the schrader valve on the tank, air it up to about 35#'s.
Turn your well breaker back on and let it build up till it shuts off. Then open a few faucets (slowly) to let the air out of your water lines.

This is correct except technically you inflate to 2# less than the cut in pressure.

I've never heard of a bladder tank lasting that long. I had one that went bad in less than a year, and another that was replaced after about 4 years. I am of the opinion that eventually every bladder will leak. This is determined by draining the tank and checking the pressure.

Once every couple years I have the guys who set my system up come out and check everything and clean the aerator.

[Stwood_]

I've never heard of a bladder tank lasting that long.

Ours was replaced in 1995 when we bought the property.