For Sale: Really, Really Crispy Wartime #9 1/2 Block

[Admiral]

 
This is a wartime ('42-'45) production Stanley #9 1/2 block plane. Incredibly crispy, zero japanning loss, excellent condition, virtually full iron, zero apologies, just a really fine example of a Stanley block plane. The wartime production eliminated the brass hardware (as on the bench planes) and to cut costs didn't have the number stamped nor the usual indents on the cheeks. Yours for a very reasonable $40 SOLD plus shipping. Here's the Flickr link to pics:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/9433588@N08/albums/72177720307785954

I don’t have paypal or any other EFT gizmos, so payment in US Postal money order please; if I know you from the forum your check will be fine.  First Private Message with an unequivocal “I’ll take it” gets priority in line and I’ll respond to every PM promptly. Please put your name and shipping address in the PM so I can print shipping labels, this avoids a lot of back and forth.


thanks for looking. . . . .

[Admiral]

Plane is sold, thanks to all for looking.

[jteneyck]

Plane is sold, thanks to all for looking.

Now I can say it.  The blade adjustment mechanism on those planes is the most counter intuitive, frustrating mechanism I've ever seen and had the misfortune to use on a plane.  I bought one from someone on here a few years ago.  The plane works well otherwise, but the adjustment mechanism takes all the pleasure out of it.  My two cents.

John

[iclark]

Now I can say it.  The blade adjustment mechanism on those planes is the most counter intuitive, frustrating mechanism I've ever seen and had the misfortune to use on a plane.  I bought one from someone on here a few years ago.  The plane works well otherwise, but the adjustment mechanism takes all the pleasure out of it.  My two cents.

John

Thank you for your patience and discretion in not saying anything until after this sold.

It has been a while since I used a 9-1/2.
Would you care to expound on how the adjustment mechanism on the 9-1/2 is different?

I have one that I am giving as a gift (part of a banana peel collection) to one of the next generation of the family and I don't want to take any of the grease off of that slippery slope.

[jteneyck]

If you use it, I think you'll see what I'm talking about.  The adjustment mechanism on most planes is turn the knob CW to push the iron forward, CCW to pull it back.  But on the 9-1/2 the wheel is horizontal.  Maybe it's still CW to go forwards, CCW to pull it back; it's just such a foreign concept to me that I never know for sure which way it's going when I want to move it a smidge.  Beyond that, the slop in how the adjustment pivot fits over the wheel is even worse than a typical Stanley/Record plane and that adds to the uncertainty of which way the blade is moving. 

On mine, the distance between the recesses on the back of the iron are too far apart.  I have to adjust the wheel almost to the end of its travel to move the iron far enough forward to take a shaving.  But if I move the iron forward to the next recess, I can't pull it back far enough to take a fine shaving.  The only solution I can see is to regrind the iron back a little so that it's in the middle of the adjustment range for the wheel.  That's poor design IMO.  

One of my woodworking friends had both the low and standard angle versions.  He got so frustrated with them that he threw them in the garbage. 

It does work well once I have it adjusted, I'll give it that.   



John

[iclark]

John,

thanks

Ivan

[Admiral]

If you use it, I think you'll see what I'm talking about.  The adjustment mechanism on most planes is turn the knob CW to push the iron forward, CCW to pull it back.  But on the 9-1/2 the wheel is horizontal.  Maybe it's still CW to go forwards, CCW to pull it back; it's just such a foreign concept to me that I never know for sure which way it's going when I want to move it a smidge.  Beyond that, the slop in how the adjustment pivot fits over the wheel is even worse than a typical Stanley/Record plane and that adds to the uncertainty of which way the blade is moving. 

On mine, the distance between the recesses on the back of the iron are too far apart.  I have to adjust the wheel almost to the end of its travel to move the iron far enough forward to take a shaving.  But if I move the iron forward to the next recess, I can't pull it back far enough to take a fine shaving.  The only solution I can see is to regrind the iron back a little so that it's in the middle of the adjustment range for the wheel.  That's poor design IMO.  

One of my woodworking friends had both the low and standard angle versions.  He got so frustrated with them that he threw them in the garbage. 

It does work well once I have it adjusted, I'll give it that.   



John

I've honestly never had an issue with this pretty common mechanism, used in MF, Sargent and other makers block planes; the wheel engages a lever and on the opposite end are teeth which engage in slots in the iron.  If you rotate the wheel upward on the threaded post, it advances the iron; down retracts the iron.  I'd have to check, but "up" is counter clockwise and down clockwise.  You also have to not lock down the lever cap, just enough pressure to secure the iron is best which still allows for adjustment.

[Jack01]

 
This is a wartime ('42-'45) production Stanley #9 1/2 block plane. Incredibly crispy, zero japanning loss, excellent condition, virtually full iron, zero apologies, just a really fine example of a Stanley block plane. The wartime production eliminated the brass hardware (as on the bench planes) and to cut costs didn't have the number stamped nor the usual indents on the cheeks. Yours for a very reasonable $40 SOLD plus shipping. Here's the Flickr link to pics:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/9433588@N08/albums/72177720307785954

I don’t have paypal or any other EFT gizmos, so payment in US Postal money order please; if I know you from the forum your check will be fine.  First Private Message with an unequivocal “I’ll take it” gets priority in line and I’ll respond to every PM promptly. Please put your name and shipping address in the PM so I can print shipping labels, this avoids a lot of back and forth.


thanks for looking. . . . .

----DAMM I am always late-----

[Snipe Hunter]

----DAMM I am always late-----

Yea, it was a clean one