School me on (near) trimless interior doors

[MKepke]

I need to add an interior door to the room above the garage. There is a finished opening right now - just standard drywall and metal corner bead.

Unfortunately, the room has a sloped ceiling on on side of the opening, giving room for maybe 1.5" width of casing.

I'm going to need to move the opening over a bit and raise the header to allow for a proper 80" tall door - but I can't move the opening enough to clear the sloped ceiling.

All this to say, I'm probably not going to have room for a traditional 3"+ casing to hide the frame and rough opening. Don't want to chop the corners off the casing to accommodate the sloped ceiling - that always looks amateurish.

Any recommendations/experience sourcing and installing (near) trimless interior doors? I did some googling and everything I found looks like some sort of special order proprietary 'system'.

Thanks,
-Mark

[Blaine]

I had a similar situation in the bathroom to our main bedroom. I ended up ripping the trim on the short side down to the size I needed, which was about that same 1.5" you describe.

The corner also needed to be clipped a bit, so the miter has a 45° cut at the outside.

It actually looks fine and the edge of the trim fits nicely enough to the drywall that I didn't even need to caulk it before painting the wall.

[blackhat]

Does the door have to be 80”?

[MKepke]

Does the door have to be 80”?

Arguably no, but there would have to be a really good tradeoff for it.

A shortie/hobbit door will look weird since it will be on the same wall and 2' from an 80" closet door.

And 78 or 80" doors are code.

And I'm 77" tall, so...

..there's that.

-Mark

[PossumDog]

I did this on a couple doors, it's all drywall work if you're comfortable with that.
In my case I had preexisting door frame with casing which I removed down to studs.
Then added drywall to the sides and top of the opening, 4 1/2 inches wide. I used vinyl corner bead on the corners. It is attached with spray adhesive and stainless steel staples. It can be cut to 45* miters at the top with scissors or shears. After that it is just multiple coats of compound and sanding/smoothing before priming and painting.

Only issue I had was assuming the opening was framed square. My first was out of square before using shims behind the drywall like you would a door.

If you want drywall instruction I like paul peck on youtube.
Couldn't find one about door openings only but found this one about outside corners. Same lesson for all sides and top:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kl6uPml3zG0

[Woodenfish]

I usually look at Trim-Tex for my drywall finishing solutions. They have an architectural “Z” Shadow Bead to aid in installing drywall for this look. They have a dealer finder on their website. You might want to call around and see if they have a couple of pieces in stock for your job.

https://www.trim-tex.com/products/archit...hadow-bead

[KC]

Arguably no, but there would have to be a really good tradeoff for it.

A shortie/hobbit door will look weird since it will be on the same wall and 2' from an 80" closet door.

And 78 or 80" doors are code.

And I'm 77" tall, so...

..there's that.

-Mark

I agree it would look weird (and I wouldn't like it either), but most people will be able to see why it's like that.  If it's that close to another door it'll look weird anyway.   If you're going to go 'near trimless', you might do the same to the door next to it at the same time.