Bandsaw blew a tire - help needed

[GaryMc]

G0513X2 17" BS that has been a workhorse for more than 15 years cutting through hundreds (thousands?) of feet including resawing 8" billets of ash and maple and have never had a major problem.  I routinely release the tension after a session and often clean gunk and debris off the tires.  On applying tension during startup I spin the wheels by hand to make sure the blade is tracking before turning it on.  When I did this two days ago, suddenly there was resistance in the spin.  I looked down to discover that the severed lower tire was trying to crawl up the saw spine.  The cut on the tire was straight across, almost like someone used a razor blade to cut it.

Not long after getting the saw I bought a set on new (urethane) tires in case the saw was discontinued, so dug them out of the drawer still in the original Griz packaging.  Instructions call for heating a large pot of water to >150 F (I used 175F), soak the tire for 10-15 minutes, then apply while the tire is still hot.  Four tries of this got nowhere close to getting the tire on, including LOMLs help holding part of it while I tried to get the remainder on.  Part of the problem, I think, is that by the time you get the tire up on the wheel it has cooled down a lot and is no longer "hot."  Also, there is a large section needing a LOT of stretch after about 2/3 is in place.

I need the collective wisdom of the WN brain trust here, including any direct similar experience.  Thoughts I had include (a) trying hotter water; (b) using some sort of stretcher to expand the hot tire before trying to mount it; and © ordering a fresher set from Grizzly.  I hesitate using a heat gun for fear of destroying the thing.

In years past I replaced the tires on an old Craftsman saw (which were rubber) with no problem at all.

Ideas/opinions/comments are requested.

Gary

[jteneyck]

I used a set of bicycle tire irons when I had to install poly tires on my 14" Delta.  You're right, the tires cool off really quickly which makes me wonder how helpful it really is.  Regardless, the tire irons got them on w/o much trouble.  And I think I put a rapid release clamp around the wheel in a couple of places as I went to keep the tire from coming back off, and moved them further along as I progressed.  

After they were on, I used a round shank screwdriver to go around between the wheel and tire to make sure they were on evenly. 

John

[kencombs]

I'd use a combination of a heat gun and an IR thermometer. Heat the wheel up to reduce the heat loss from tire while mounting. Use the thermometer to make sure you don't overheat.

That said, i was able to get them on my Delta 14 with just hot water and three old screwdrivers that had all the sharp edges removed. And a few clamps to aid with holding. Really strong spring clamps 'cause they are fast acting to minimize heat loss.

Hard to say what will work best as there is a lot of difference in urethane quality. My first replacement set failed in less than a year. Just crumbled. Hard as a rock.

[RPE1]

G0513X2 17" BS that has been a workhorse for more than 15 years cutting through hundreds (thousands?) of feet including resawing 8" billets of ash and maple and have never had a major problem.  I routinely release the tension after a session and often clean gunk and debris off the tires.  On applying tension during startup I spin the wheels by hand to make sure the blade is tracking before turning it on.  When I did this two days ago, suddenly there was resistance in the spin.  I looked down to discover that the severed lower tire was trying to crawl up the saw spine.  The cut on the tire was straight across, almost like someone used a razor blade to cut it.

Not long after getting the saw I bought a set on new (urethane) tires in case the saw was discontinued, so dug them out of the drawer still in the original Griz packaging.  Instructions call for heating a large pot of water to >150 F (I used 175F), soak the tire for 10-15 minutes, then apply while the tire is still hot.  Four tries of this got nowhere close to getting the tire on, including LOMLs help holding part of it while I tried to get the remainder on.  Part of the problem, I think, is that by the time you get the tire up on the wheel it has cooled down a lot and is no longer "hot."  Also, there is a large section needing a LOT of stretch after about 2/3 is in place.

I need the collective wisdom of the WN brain trust here, including any direct similar experience.  Thoughts I had include (a) trying hotter water; (b) using some sort of stretcher to expand the hot tire before trying to mount it; and © ordering a fresher set from Grizzly.  I hesitate using a heat gun for fear of destroying the thing.

In years past I replaced the tires on an old Craftsman saw (which were rubber) with no problem at all.

Ideas/opinions/comments are requested.

Gary

Get some new tires.  They are 15 years old and brittle.

[Lumber Yard®]

Warm the tire up in hot water, start 1/2 of the tire on the wheel and secure to the wheel with zip ties, start stretching a section of tire over the other half of the wheel and continue securing it with zip ties until you have the entire tire seated. I know that this technique has worked for me numerous times so, hopefully it will work for you even with older tires.

[barryvabeach]

I have the same saw, and eventually, the OEM tire just came off.  I bought an aftermarket ( not from Grizzly ) and did the hot water trick -  so I can say it is doable on that saw.

[GaryMc]

Thanks for the responses, all.  I had thought about using clamps (zip ties - great idea!) instead of spouse's fingers to help keep the thing in place as I work around the rim.  And yes, I do have a set of tire irons from days long past. 


Last night I had the idea to remove the wheel, thinking it would be easier to deal with on the bench.  So tried to remove it and it will not budge with anything like reasonable force (I would really like to avoid damaging the bearing).  I would like to get the wheel loosened up for future access to the drive belt which will eventually need to be replaced.  Not much of a way to get any sort of pry down there and any sort of puller would have to be an odd home-made bird.  It is soaking in PB Blaster so we'll see if that helps.  Maybe a little heat gun help? 

Gary

[iclark]

Thanks for the responses, all.  I had thought about using clamps (zip ties - great idea!) instead of spouse's fingers to help keep the thing in place as I work around the rim.  And yes, I do have a set of tire irons from days long past. 


Last night I had the idea to remove the wheel, thinking it would be easier to deal with on the bench.  So tried to remove it and it will not budge with anything like reasonable force (I would really like to avoid damaging the bearing).  I would like to get the wheel loosened up for future access to the drive belt which will eventually need to be replaced.  Not much of a way to get any sort of pry down there and any sort of puller would have to be an odd home-made bird.  It is soaking in PB Blaster so we'll see if that helps.  Maybe a little heat gun help? 

Gary

Does the manual have instructions for replacing the drive belt?

There might be a mechanical keeper holding the wheel on the shaft. If so, they can be very easy to miss.

[jteneyck]

Does the manual have instructions for replacing the drive belt?

There might be a mechanical keeper holding the wheel on the shaft. If so, they can be very easy to miss.

Yes, IIRC, there is a circlip that retains the lower wheel.  If I'm right, you do not want to pry on it before it is removed.  

John

[GaryMc]

Does the manual have instructions for replacing the drive belt?

There might be a mechanical keeper holding the wheel on the shaft. If so, they can be very easy to miss.

Yep, just says remove shaft bolt and "slip the wheel off" to get access to the belt.
  Will try again today after another Blaster treatment.