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I think that’s called character.
Matt
If trees could scream, would we be so cavalier about cutting them down? We might, if they screamed all the time, for no good reason.
-Jack Handy
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07-13-2023, 05:11 PM
(This post was last modified: 07-13-2023, 05:12 PM by KC.)
(07-13-2023, 04:57 PM)EatenByLimestone Wrote: I think that’s called character.
Yeah. The wall isn't quite plumb... but I hung the door plumb. So my trim extensions are 1/2 wider at the bottom than the top. When I saw it was that much I almost took it out to redo it and split the difference... but then I remembered how much I hate fiddling with doors and that this one had gone surprisingly well (all considered). So it is what it is. Which is ready for caulk and some patching on the wall where the trim pulled the paint off. All in all... I've seen worse. :laugh
I've got a pic of the trim job, but it won't let me add it.
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(07-12-2023, 07:07 PM)KC Wrote: Yes. I think they'd left a reveal where they attached the extension. That would also solve the problem of the strike plate thingy on the handle side. I had to do some fancy trim on three other doors where they made 'creative' use of drywall that changed the wall thickness. I thought about taking all the interior walls to the studs, but then I think I would've had a ceiling problem (done after the walls)... so I decided it was good enough. None of oit really looks offensive to me.
That said, I had no idea they made jamb extension kits until after I hung it. But I figure there was a reason they made the 'extension' on the interior side, so that's the way I put it back. Frankly, I'm tickled that a full height door fit in the hole. No such luck with the other door. I have always made an extension with a 1/4 in reveal for caulking and to clear the strike plate. In your case you will have to use a 2 1/2 in nail. I have had to do double reveals on " owner supplied doors" because they didn't want to pay for a bigger jamp of jamb extension from the mill. Im a remodeling contractor so I see it here and there. Looks like you got it figured out. Good luck.
Robert
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(07-13-2023, 05:11 PM)KC Wrote: Yeah. The wall isn't quite plumb... but I hung the door plumb. So my trim extensions are 1/2 wider at the bottom than the top. When I saw it was that much I almost took it out to redo it and split the difference... but then I remembered how much I hate fiddling with doors and that this one had gone surprisingly well (all considered). So it is what it is. Which is ready for caulk and some patching on the wall where the trim pulled the paint off. All in all... I've seen worse. :laugh
I've got a pic of the trim job, but it won't let me add it.
No one will know.
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(07-12-2023, 07:07 PM)KC Wrote: Yes. I think they'd left a reveal where they attached the extension. That would also solve the problem of the strike plate thingy on the handle side. I had to do some fancy trim on three other doors where they made 'creative' use of drywall that changed the wall thickness. I thought about taking all the interior walls to the studs, but then I think I would've had a ceiling problem (done after the walls)... so I decided it was good enough. None of oit really looks offensive to me.
That said, I had no idea they made jamb extension kits until after I hung it. But I figure there was a reason they made the 'extension' on the interior side, so that's the way I put it back. Frankly, I'm tickled that a full height door fit in the hole. No such luck with the other door.
You can install the door (reasonably) flush with interior then rip the jamb extensions as required. Just remember to add the threshold extension first
. Yup I've forgotten.
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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(07-16-2023, 11:12 AM)MstrCarpenter Wrote: You can install the door (reasonably) flush with interior then rip the jamb extensions as required. Just remember to add the threshold extension first
. Yup I've forgotten
Not caulked or painted yet here, but it doesn't look too bad.
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07-21-2023, 07:24 AM
(This post was last modified: 07-21-2023, 07:26 AM by Snipe Hunter.)
(07-12-2023, 07:07 PM)KC Wrote: Yes. I think they'd left a reveal where they attached the extension. That would also solve the problem of the strike plate thingy on the handle side. I had to do some fancy trim on three other doors where they made 'creative' use of drywall that changed the wall thickness. I thought about taking all the interior walls to the studs, but then I think I would've had a ceiling problem (done after the walls)... so I decided it was good enough. None of oit really looks offensive to me.
That said, I had no idea they made jamb extension kits until after I hung it. But I figure there was a reason they made the 'extension' on the interior side, so that's the way I put it back. Frankly, I'm tickled that a full height door fit in the hole. No such luck with the other door.
You can order them with an extended jamb or just make them with 1x or 5/4 if it will fit in the opening. If that is an off the shelf pre-hung door, ordering one with an extended jamb could double the price of a stock door.
Take off the brick molding. Make your extension jamb. Nail or screw and glue the extension keeping your nails or screws off to the side so the replaced brick mold hides them. You want the extension on the exterior so the door operates properly and opens fully. Honestly, if I were in your situation... I'd take it out and re-install it. You will have problems down the road with your hinges either pulling out or your hinges bending. Your door needs to be flush with the interior wall.
You only get 1 chance to do it right the first time.
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(07-21-2023, 07:24 AM)Snipe Hunter Wrote: You can order them with an extended jamb or just make them with 1x or 5/4 if it will fit in the opening. If that is an off the shelf pre-hung door, ordering one with an extended jamb could double the price of a stock door.
Take off the brick molding. Make your extension jamb. Nail or screw and glue the extension keeping your nails or screws off to the side so the replaced brick mold hides them. You want the extension on the exterior so the door operates properly and opens fully. Honestly, if I were in your situation... I'd take it out and re-install it. You will have problems down the road with your hinges either pulling out or your hinges bending. Your door needs to be flush with the interior wall.
You only get 1 chance to do it right the first time.
I hear what you're saying, and can see that the door won't open much beyond 90 degrees... but the other one was exactly the same way and the hinges were fine for 30 years.
Having done quite a bit of work on another old house, I should've known enough to take the whole 100 year old area down to the studs.
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(07-22-2023, 05:16 AM)KC Wrote: I hear what you're saying, and can see that the door won't open much beyond 90 degrees... but the other one was exactly the same way and the hinges were fine for 30 years.
Having done quite a bit of work on another old house, I should've known enough to take the whole 100 year old area down to the studs.
You don't need to take it down to the studs. You just need an extension jamb. Most home improvement stores stock them. Most stock doors are built with jambs for 2x4 walls even though houses are built with 2x6 walls now. So they have to stock the extension jambs to fit new houses. 2 extra sheets of drywall is 1" so the stock extension jamb would work.
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(07-22-2023, 06:35 AM)Snipe Hunter Wrote: You don't need to take it down to the studs. You just need an extension jamb. Most home improvement stores stock them. Most stock doors are built with jambs for 2x4 walls even though houses are built with 2x6 walls now. So they have to stock the extension jambs to fit new houses. 2 extra sheets of drywall is 1" so the stock extension jamb would work.
I know that now. Right or wrong, it's not offensive to me... and it's a functional door. Next guy can change it when I'm dead.
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