What do yall think about that Rip-it?

[KyleD]

An accurate digital readout and some type of fine adjust knob for when one gets close would give me all the features I want, This would probably be a lot cheaper and more robust than one that moves itself. Not to mention it would probably eliminate batteries that need to be occasionally replaced.

[Tapper]

A couple of years ago an ad for this introductory product dropped into my e-mailbox. I liked the way it looked and worked and IIRC there was an "introductory" price. Bought one and installed it on my SawStop PCS. Have used it a few times and have to say it's pretty handy. Does not intrude on normal saw usage when not engaged.

In full disclosure I'm not a huge fan of Woodpecker as a company (separate story) but I do like this product. 

Doug

[tablesawtom]

The problem with the Biesmeyer fence system type is you will get a parallax error if you view the line on the tape from any angle rather than straight. The other problem is making small adjustments in-between lines.

I used to do my adjustments a little differently with an indicator which lean me to make this. I turn on the magnet and set zero anywhere on the dial I wish. Now I can make a .005 move if I want to or I can go back the the original. 

   

It is a great way to get the fit when inserting a piece of wood into a Dato. Just an example is to cut  a Dato with a stacked set, lets use 5 /8th stack for a lack of any other size. I find I use a digital caliper I bought from Menards for around $20. Probably more now  it has been a while. The Dato width is measurable and the lets say a piece of plywood for a lack of anything else is also measurable. Again it is hypothetical lets say the difference is .065 difference.  Move the fence .065. Chances are is just right that it will still to tight. Which in this case put the indicator back on and move the fence what ever you want it. The distance between lines is .001 so you can eyeball .0006 if you want. 

Another use is with a tenoning jig. After the first initial cut is made the jig can be adjusted accurately by again using the dial indicator. the jig can also be used to make sure the jig is parallel with the miter slot.

   

   

   

Although I changed points for the next, it is a way of checking or setting you miter gage to 90 degrees. You will have to trust me on this one but I checked out both of my Starrett 12 inch squares on a CMM (Coordinate Measuring Machine) at work and both are within .001 runout in 12 inches. YOU move the miter gage in the slot and if your gage is off , how much. If your gage is adjustable it is easy.

   

   


And lastly my thin rip jig. Because the piece I had handy was a little thin I had to shim it up for the indicator to contact it for the pictures. The point is a little over 3/4 of an inch off the table. I cut the board to establish the distance the fence is from the blade. All my regular saw blades produce a 1/8th kerf. ( .125). Let say I want to cut a few strips 1/8th wide  I move .125 (1/8 for the saw kerf) and .125 ( 1/8 for the width of the strip I want. When doing something like this I like to make it so the needle make about one revolution. I reposition the indicator and set zero and then both the fence with the wood is moved until it registers at the zero point and the next cut is made.  For 1000 parts I think I would find a faster way to do it but for 15 it is the way I do it. 

   

   

It looks like I moved it .165 in  for some reason in the picture. 

I hope I have helped.

Tom

[tablesawtom]

The problem that comes to mind with my previous post is the fact that if the indicator is not at exactly 90 degrees in all planes of motion you get what is called a cosign error. You have a triangle and the movement is on the hypotenuse of the angle. but the movement is on the side adjacent of the angle or the next longest side of a triangle . That is the cosine of the angle. 

Because of the way the indicator is made and the thickness of the magnet the indicator is about 3/4 of an inch above the table surface. I used the top of the wood to alight he bottom of the indicator parallel I use my eye to align it on the other axes. I do the best I can but because it is a cosign error the movement is always less than what the dial reads. Hypothetically, if I wanted to move .125 I may of only moved .123. The longer the move to less the actual distance moved is.

I wrote all of this because someone on this forum will find some thing wrong with what I wrote and bring up the cosign error factor like I didn't knw about it. No mater what I write someone will find fault with it. 

I am planning on making my jig so that. I can angle it down some so I do not have to shim the board for a thin rip jig. I didn't at first because of the level plane but I can adjust or work around the cosign error factor.

I got an indicator, like the one shone, at Menards for $23.14 and the magnet from Home around $25. The 1/2 inch diameter point is from MSC. Mine is a point made by Mitutoyo. Cost today, I have no idea, probably around $15 dollars by now.

There are a lot of high priced products out there that become suddenly unnecessary. My question is if you can set you miter gage at 90 degrees any time you want then why do you need an exact 90 degrees only miter gage? And the list goes on.  

Tom

[rwe2156]

Wow you guys are intimidating. ll I use a dial indicator for is machine set up. There is rarely a time in my ww'ing anyway, where I need to be in thousandths, and I'm using a hand plane for those.

Anyway....I'm a fence tapper/sneak up on it/test fit guy. I'm not usually cutting to a measurement, I'm cutting to a fit.

Here's a test for the 'wood machinists' out there: rip a strip to .250 and go back and mic it a couple days later. Yup, wood moves.

[DogwoodTales]

I have the same three thoughts as I have on 99% of the products I see at Rockler - impressive, expensive, I'll pass.

I'll pass because I don't have anywhere enough need for it and just no desire for it.

[tablesawtom]

Wow you guys are intimidating.  ll I use a dial indicator for is machine set up.  There is rarely a time in my ww'ing anyway, where I need to be in thousandths, and I'm using a hand plane for those.

Anyway....I'm a fence tapper/sneak up on it/test fit guy.  I'm not usually cutting to a measurement, I'm cutting to a fit.

Here's a test for the 'wood machinists' out there: rip a strip to .250 and go back and mic it a couple days later.  Yup, wood moves.

I tap to fit but I like to measure how much the tap is, It is very easy to over tap and then your fit is out the window. If you can't measure your tap then you tap is a wing and a prayer. Yes wood moves. But then you can always buy Woodpeckers thin rip jig for $160.99  plus shipping. Wood peckers jig does exactly what I posted does.  If you use Woodpecker jig go back a coupe of days latter  and see what you have. Wood moves.

There are 25 pennies in a quarter. Add a zero and you get .250. I was just using 1/4 of an inch as an illustration.

By the way you can also get the exact fit in a Dato by using Woodpecker's Exact width Dato jig for $426.00 plus shipping   but then there is also the cost of the router and cutters. An exact -90 degree miter gage for $312.99 plus shipping 

If a person used digital readout on his or her fence you are doing the same thing, If you use Woodpeckers rip and flip you are basically doing the same thing.

This is to all, If you really try to understand all the different applications for what I posted instead of finding something wrong with it you will be amazed of its value. And the information is free. I even gave prices and where to get it.

[paul2004]

I appreciate you sharing your ideas TableSawTom, I am going to use them. thanks

[Stwood_]

Wixey is easy. Has a magnetic that sticks to the fence. Slap the fence back on and recalb and get to work.

[tablesawtom]

What does a Wixey DRO cost for a table saw? I am not even going to bother to check but I will bet it is more than I have invested. And if it is mounted on a table saw will it also work on a router table fence on a band saw fence? Will it help square up a miter gage. All I do is turn off the magnet and move it to a different machine. Not so easy with a Wixey mounted on a saw. The indicator is mounted so it can also be use on nom magnetic surfaces, one just needs to be carful

Why does me using an indicator come under fire? The general consciences is we are only working with wood, but it is a great thing when we install a Wixey DRO.  Does not a DRO measure in thousands ? I was going to put one on planner but the accuracy resolution is only .005. 

If you tap and fit and you move to far you will find out about it when it is to late. And again if you know you moved to far how do you go back to fix it because you have also lost your point of origin.

I set my jointer blades with an indicator. I set my depth final of cut on cut with my planner with an indicator. I set my blade height and make adjustments on both my table saw and router table with an indicator.

To be perfectly honest with you 99 percent of the time the tape reading on my saw fence is good enough. But when a small movement is needed I use what I posted. Why do I need to invest in a Wixey DRO?  Now I also know that there is a difference between need and want. And if you want one then by all means get one. But if you can't afford one my method will work until  you can afford one.

Tom