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Ok I hope this question is OK in this forum. Need to find a better lubricant for a few power tools such as the tablesaw gears and also my Performax drum sander height adjusting plate and screw handle bolt threads. It has to be a product that does not attract dust because both are huge dust emitters. I have used the white lithium dry grease but that has caked up over time and is a mess to clean. So my question what are all you woodworkers using on those gears and moving parts on your power woodworking tools?? Thanks in advance.
John T.
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I have not found a "dry" lubricant of any brand that works well with moving parts on tools. In my opinion ALL effective lubricants attract dust, just the nature of things. So, I have chosen to use liquid lubricants that keep the parts moving smoothly. That can be WD-40, 3-in-one oil or the oil lubricant I use on my metalworking machines.
A prime example is the elevation screw on my Dewalt GA radial arm saw. When I rebuilt the saw the elevation screw was caked up with dust and grease from prior neglect. Cleaned it completely and applied some of that dry spray lubricant many recommend. The crank handle was a bear to turn, i.e. not good. Wiped it down with mineral spirits as best as I could and then sprayed it with WD40. Turns as smooth as silk.
I think the key is to monitor it, clean it throughly when it gets caked up and then re-lube.
HTH,
Doug
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(10-07-2023, 10:35 PM)Tapper Wrote: I have not found a "dry" lubricant of any brand that works well with moving parts on tools. In my opinion ALL effective lubricants attract dust, just the nature of things. So, I have chosen to use liquid lubricants that keep the parts moving smoothly. That can be WD-40, 3-in-one oil or the oil lubricant I use on my metalworking machines.
A prime example is the elevation screw on my Dewalt GA radial arm saw. When I rebuilt the saw the elevation screw was caked up with dust and grease from prior neglect. Cleaned it completely and applied some of that dry spray lubricant many recommend. The crank handle was a bear to turn, i.e. not good. Wiped it down with mineral spirits as best as I could and then sprayed it with WD40. Turns as smooth as silk.
I think the key is to monitor it, clean it throughly when it gets caked up and then re-lube.
HTH,
Doug
Yea that was the problem with my drum sander. I did not do that and the bolt stripped and also stripped the threads on the plate. So have a new set and want to avoid this again. I also feel the tablesaw getting sluggish so it needs cleaning.
John T.
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(10-08-2023, 01:40 AM)JTTHECLOCKMAN Wrote: Yea that was the problem with my drum sander. I did not do that and the bolt stripped and also stripped the threads on the plate. So have a new set and want to avoid this again. I also feel the tablesaw getting sluggish so it needs cleaning.
My 16/32 has gotten 'balky' occasionally over the years (nearly 20), but never stuck. I've used the white 'spray' grease, silicone spray, and WD-40 on it, but not regularly and not often. Maybe 5 or 6 times. I've used a ShopVac as a dust 'collector' with that for a few years now, so it gets pretty dusty.
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10-08-2023, 05:47 AM
(This post was last modified: 10-08-2023, 05:48 AM by fredhargis.)
For the table saw, Howard Atchison (if you remember him) used to recommend using paste wax put on the gears with a tooth brush and then wipe off the excess. I tried that and it worked very well. I did change saws over time and the new is a little hard to get to with that so I use something called " Blaster Dry Lube" and so far it has worked well, but i have good DC on the saw and that may be part of the success equation. On m RAS I packed that column elevation screw with grease and I watch it, if it gets gummed up I'll clean and repack.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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There are a few spray dry lube products out there. The main ingredient (I think) is PTFE. The main advantage is the longevity. If you use WD40 or similar, it needs to be "changed" more frequently. I've been using a PTFE spray for years, one such as this https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-300052-Spec...3831&psc=1
Recently, the Rockwell table saw at work was becoming increasingly difficult to adjust the blade height. After thoroughly cleaning and spraying PTFE on the gears, little to no help. Then, I sprayed the bearing the housing where the crank handle was and success. I used WD40 for that.
I no longer build museums but don't want to change my name. My new job is a lot less stressful. Life is much better.
Garry
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(10-08-2023, 07:49 AM)museumguy Wrote: There are a few spray dry lube products out there. The main ingredient (I think) is PTFE. The main advantage is the longevity. If you use WD40 or similar, it needs to be "changed" more frequently. I've been using a PTFE spray for years, one such as this https://www.amazon.com/WD-40-300052-Spec...3831&psc=1
Recently, the Rockwell table saw at work was becoming increasingly difficult to adjust the blade height. After thoroughly cleaning and spraying PTFE on the gears, little to no help. Then, I sprayed the bearing the housing where the crank handle was and success. I used WD40 for that.
I know I really should do more maintenance on my tools and that drum sander got away from me and I use it so much I should have noticed it but it just went and threads got all butchered up and no fixing so do not want that to happen again. I just need to be careful with the stuff I use that it does not cause a problem with wood when going to finish it. That is why I am thinking some kind of dry lube. Thanks for the replys.
John T.
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I've tried paraffin wax on my TS. It was hard to apply over the racks and only worked sort of OK. I think it was Joe Grout who recommended TriFlow lubricant. Voila', works like a charm. Bicycle chain lube is pretty much the same thing and works about as well. Both dry out and don't attract much dust or dirt. Some folks recommend dry graphite lubricant, but it's never worked for me. The comment about lubing where the crank goes through the saw body is spot on. That has often been the source of friction on my old Unisaw.
John
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I enjoy reading everyone's preferred method of lubing the gears. Some I never would have thought of. Most of them will be given a go in rotation as needed. Funny thing is, my Ridgid contractor saw hasn't been lubed in a few years and still is smooth as silk. The old Unisaw and new Grizzly where I used to work needed constant attention.
I no longer build museums but don't want to change my name. My new job is a lot less stressful. Life is much better.
Garry
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Spray grease lube or whatever is handy.
Steve
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