Way to cut bead profile manually on cabinet face frame

[Willyou]

As mentioned by others, cut or apply the beading to the doors. This keeps the opening the same and would be much much easier than cutting the beading or applying a bead strip to the face frame. Why does it have to be on the face frame (cut or applied)? With the doors closed (99% of the time) it will look nearly the same.

[TBroussard]

As mentioned by others, cut or apply the beading to the doors. This keeps the opening the same and would be much much easier than cutting the beading or applying a bead strip to the face frame. Why does it have to be on the face frame (cut or applied)? With the doors closed (99% of the time) it will look nearly the same.

To match cabinets that I already built using the bead on the face frame before deciding to not demo the existing cabinets

[Willyou]

Sorry. I didn't pick up on the fact that you are trying to match an existing detail. It appears you are left with using scratch stock. Or, the Stanley beading plane is an interesting idea. It would cut the bead all the way to the corner which a router can't do.
You might consider using a router with a straight bit and bearing to trim 1/8" off of the face frame reducing the opening enough to allow for applying the suggested beaded trim strip. You might have to do a bit of chisel clean-up in the corners, but all done, it might be easier and quicker.

[barryvabeach]

A scratch stock will work pretty well since you will be going with the grain most of the time, but it will help to use a chisel when you get to the corners.  If you are going to be a lot of doors, let me know.  I just did about 40 frame and panel doors for my kitchen overhaul and during that process learned a few things that may help you.

[Stwood_]

Looking for a suggestion on how to manually cut a bead profile on cabinet face frame that is already installed.  I am pulling overlay doors off and keeping carcasses in place so not to disturb granite.  I don't see an easy way to remove existing face frames without causing damage to carcasses, will build new doors installed as inset doors.  I would like to add the beading detail that would help define the openings a bit more.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

You could also make all new facing for the existing face frame. Say 3/16 or 1/4 thick, with the beading on those pieces. Then sand down your existing frames to bare wood. Fit, glue, and pin nail or clamp the pieces in place.

[kencombs]

It won't look exactly the same, but you can cut a 1/4" v-groove about a 1/4 back from the edge, then use a 1/4" roundover on the edge.   Will need a little hand work in the corners but much easier than manual.   And the trim router will be on the face, not the edge for both passes.

[KC]

Looking for a suggestion on how to manually cut a bead profile on cabinet face frame that is already installed.  I am pulling overlay doors off and keeping carcasses in place so not to disturb granite.  I don't see an easy way to remove existing face frames without causing damage to carcasses, will build new doors installed as inset doors.  I would like to add the beading detail that would help define the openings a bit more.

Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance

Nothing to add to the thread, but interesting that I thought about you just a few days ago.  Wondered what you've been up to.

[MstrCarpenter]

If I was to try beading the face frames by hand, there would be (best case scenario) a learning curve involved with possibly unacceptable results. So I was wondering when that happens how do I replace the damaged portion? First I'd have to cut out the damaged part. I could use a rabbeting bit and cut a new piece to fit and then..... Nevermind! I think I would rather just start with the rabbet then add a beaded filler.

[TBroussard]

If I was to try beading the face frames by hand, there would be (best case scenario) a learning curve involved with possibly unacceptable results. So I was wondering when that happens how do I replace the damaged portion? First I'd have to cut out the damaged part. I could use a rabbeting bit and cut a new piece to fit and then..... Nevermind! I think I would rather just start with the rabbet then add a beaded filler.

Absolutely, I fully plan to test the process on a cabinet that I have already removed that is same wood species , size, etc.  This will allow me to replicate exactly how it the scraper will work when the face fram is already mounted vertically.

[MstrCarpenter]

Practicing is a good idea, but I still don't think I would find myself hand planing a bead on the existing frames. I would prefer to machine then install the beads in a rabbet. The beads could be purposely left a little wide and trimmed flush with a router, a little shy and and trim the face frame (with a top bearing bit), or machine them close enough that a little hand sanding brings everything flush.

If I had to bead the existing frames to maintain grain pattern and color, I would try a router. I have a couple Porta-Cable laminate trimmers. The kits come with a belt drive attachment to enable routing right up to the wall. This would allow machining right up to the corners. I'd still need something more substantial than the base on the edge of the frame and a small bearing on the face to keep the bead uniform. I'm wondering how I would add an additional guide on the base to ride on the face frame without removing the benefit of routing right up to the corners. I'm thinking the portion over the bit would have to be round.

All of this is probably a personal preference of what you feel comfortable (and would enjoy) doing. The "hand tool gang" will tell you it's easier, quieter, and less messy with a few hand tools. Me? I'm still a production kind of guy. I've always enjoyed woodworking, but I still need to produce to get paid; so I lean towards power tools.