Cherry and Lye

[jteneyck]

My understanding is that Transtint cannot be use in oil based products unless you use an additive made for the purpose. Check out their web page. I think this information is there somewhere.

Yes, that was my understanding, too, and was proven true when I tried adding TT dye to Arm-R-Seal.  However, I was reading an article by Jeff Jewitt (the developer of TT dyes) in FWW # 164 on finishing mahogany, and he clearly describes adding TT dye to linseed oil on page 37-38 of that issue.  So I went to the shop and added some to pure tung oil and, much to my surprise and delight, it mixes right in.  Now I have a way to color an oil based finish/sealer, and I'm testing finishing recipes right now for an upcoming mahogany table project.  

So it seems TT dye is miscible in some oils w/o having to use an additive.

John

[Willyou]

Ed, this isn't a suggestion but you can use potassium dichromate to darken cherry, and it's a lot safer than lye. Here's some info about it. I would probably still look at other options but this may do what you want.

I tried the potassium dichromate a long time ago and what I remember is that I was no more impressed with it than I was with the lye. Both methods were once used many years ago before we had modern dyes and stains. They sort of duplicate the natural process but speed it up. You don't have much control and the consistency is not good. Also, you are dependent on what they give you for color. If you want the color to be a little more red or a little browner than the natural process, you are out of luck, AFAIK.

[ed kerns]

Some more suggestions if you don't mind. Yes, it is expensive but goes a long way. However, when learning and experimenting, you can use it up quickly. Start out with small amounts of water and use an eye dropper and small measuring spoons. You can get the color from the bottle one drop at a time, but you risk getting too much if you're not careful or accidently squeeze too hard. Take careful notes as you go. And remember that you won't see the actual color until you add the final clear finish on top. Keep a spray can of shellac or lacquer handy.
Get some measuring spoons that are labeled in ml and then figure out how many drops in a ml. Using the decimal system makes it very easy to scale up your formula when you get it worked out. I usually start with about 30-40 ml of water and then start adding color a few drops at a time and then test on a well sanded piece of project wood making about 1 sq in swatches. Number them and note the formula. When you get the color and intensity you want, total up the number of drops and ml you used to make it and multiply by what ever it takes to give you the quantity you need for the project.
Have fun.

PS. Be sure to wear rubber gloves or you will be washing your hands in bleach.

I appreciate the advice. It makes sense. You mentioned starting with a shade of brown, is there a particular brown from transtint that makes a good starting point?

[ed kerns]

Ed, this isn't a suggestion but you can use potassium dichromate to darken cherry, and it's a lot safer than lye. Here's some info about it. I would probably still look at other options but this may do what you want.

Thanks for the link Fred. I enjoyed my little experimentation with lye on some sample boards and was pretty pleased with the results, but I have to admit wearing all that safety gear would be a pain if I were to use it to color the  table I'm building.

[EdL]

IME....when using Transtint dye small livestock syrenges from the farm store work great for measuring and getting repeatable results.
Their cost is minimal....and take good notes on your mix.
Easier to get the dye out of the bottle if one gets a needle too.

Yes its pricey..

Ed

[Willyou]

I appreciate the advice. It makes sense. You mentioned starting with a shade of brown, is there a particular brown from transtint that makes a good starting point?

Medium Bown

[Snipe Hunter]

Remember, it takes a lot less toner to darken than it does to lighten. I've found that if you mix something too dark, it's cheaper to throw it way and start over than to try to lighten it.

[merced]

Potassium dichromate is a strong oxidizer with a long history of use in tanning, paints, and pyrotechnics, among other things.  Very pretty crystals, and you can achieve results with some woods that are hard to get otherwise.

Like lye, it's corrosive, particularly in solution.  It's also both toxic and carcinogenic.  If you're going to work with it, you want full PPE and a proper method of disposal (not down the sink!).

[Scoony]

Another chemical that will darken cherry and is mush safer than some of the others is Arm and Hammer Washing Soda. Dissolve a spoon or two into a pint of warm water.

It does triple duty with cleaning saw blades and as a laundry booster.

There is also another commercial product that comes in two parts that will darken cherry nicely, but can't remember the name of it, or even find it with Google.

[jteneyck]

I appreciate the advice. It makes sense. You mentioned starting with a shade of brown, is there a particular brown from transtint that makes a good starting point?

Just saw this.  This is 1% Transtint Brown Mahogany in water on cherry plywood.



And after finishing with GF's EnduroVar Satin:



Same stuff in different light:




John