Drawer Lock Bit - Drawer Stock Sizing Question

[Paladin]

I just bought the Freud Drawer Lock bit. It is Freud 99-240: 2" (Dia.) Drawer Lock Bit with 1/2" Shank - Perma-SHIELD Coating Red - 


OK, can't find this anywhere....how do I size the drawer if I am using this bit? For example, if my finished drawer length needs to be 21",

do I use a 21" side or do I have to adjust the measurement because of the bit I am using? If my finished size is to be 21" deep (the sides) and 15" wide,

I would usually (assuming 1/2 thick stock) make my sides 21" and my front and back 14".  Then, with a simple butt joint, my finished drawer would be 21" X 15".

If I use this bit, would that be the same? Or would my prepared stock dimensions have to change to accommodate the bit in order to get the desired final dimensions?



Thanks in advance.

[Willyou]

No. It will not be the same. You will have to compensate for the depth of cut both ways.

[Paladin]

No. It will not be the same. You will have to compensate for the depth of cut both ways.

Thanks.

Is there any formula for figuring this out? Or should I just prep up a 10" square drawer box, make the cuts,
assemble then measure to see what happened? Should not be that hard to do, but if there was
a formula, then all the better.

[fredhargis]

Does this help? Go down to the "downloads" section and look at the PDF...it shows setup and finished drawer appearance.

[MstrCarpenter]

I think the beauty of the drawer lock joint is that it can be made with a single set-up on the router table if you're just making drawer boxes to which a drawer front will be mounted later. Using the #99-240 bit, the sides are full length, and the front/back are 1/2" longer than if a simple butt joint were used (1/4" each side).
 However; If you're making drawers with the front similar to what's shown on the PDF (https://www.freudtools.com/public/assets...r-lock.pdf ), there's going to be a little math and/or trial and error. The back is easiest; add 1/2" to I.D.. The sides are going to be the length you want inside the cabinet. The front will be the I.D. + thickness of two sides + the partial overlay on both sides.

[Paladin]

I think the beauty of the drawer lock joint is that it can be made with a single set-up on the router table if you're just making drawer boxes to which a drawer front will be mounted later. Using the #99-240 bit, the sides are full length, and the front/back are 1/2" longer than if a simple butt joint were used (1/4" each side).
 However; If you're making drawers with the front similar to what's shown on the PDF (https://www.freudtools.com/public/assets...r-lock.pdf ), there's going to be a little math and/or trial and error. The back is easiest; add 1/2" to I.D.. The sides are going to be the length you want inside the cabinet. The front will be the I.D. + thickness of two sides + the partial overlay on both sides.

MstCarpenter<<==>>I am going to add a drawer front later, and I have the 99-240, so I will try it out using the guidelines you provided.

Again, thanks.

[gboot]

I found that it takes a few cuts the first time to dial the setup in. Use some scrap pieces and when done, save them. Next time you’re making drawers it is much easier and you can use these pieces to figure your lengths.

[tablesawtom]

I have one of the bits and they are touchy to set up. I don't use it because you end up with a cross grain gluing situation, and you need  mechanical fasteners if using solid wood.  I will work okay if the drawer sides are plywood. But it is just as easy to use a 1/4 tenon into a 1/4 groove if you are going to use nails for example.

Also the width of the and length of the drawer are effected by the thickness of the drawer sides. It can be a big deal if you are using ball bearing slide with a  + or -  1/32 of an inch for size. Yes I know the sides can be trimmed to size later.

The size problem also exists with half blind dovetails from a jig

And yes the sizes of the drawer components can be adjusted but a drawer will have to be made first.

To tell you the truth you will have a cross grain glue problem with any method other than dove tails ( either half blind or through) and  or finger joint.

Anyway good luck with your drawer making.

Tom

[firefighter]

I use 2 of the bit, usually when making overlap face drawers. One table is sit up for the front with required offset (width of the off set and thickness of the drawer side.) Back up table has bit set for depth of the face cut. Height is 3/8" on both bits. Usually a slight adjustment and im off and running. L shaped fence to cut the dado for the bottom and I turned out drawers very quickly. Just remember to use a backup board for end grain.
I am finishing up #6 dresser and made me a lot of drawers.