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for my jointer/planer, not the one on my shoulders. I took the blades out to sharpen today because there is a nick in them. Wow, I didn't realize how deep they were. It took me an hour to sharpen the three of them. That likely would have been a 10 minute job to rotate one or two cutters on a segmented head. I looked into one months/years ago, then let it drop because I'm cheap. Perhaps I should reconsider; I'd rather being cutting wood than maintaining equipment these days.
The issue isn't just the segmented head. Because of the increased power needed to run one, the anemic 3 KW motor likely will need to be replaced as well. I can barely take off 1/16" now w/o bogging it down, so I generally go 1/32" per pass. SLOW. With a segmented head it's going to be even less unless I put a new motor on it, so I think I'm looking at at least $2k. If the 750 lb thing weren't down in my basement shop it might make more sense to sell/replace it, but that's not going to happen at this point.
Anyone else dealt with this first world dilemma?
John
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I just want to mention you didn't toss in the noise reduction with the segmented head. Before I converted my planer it was the only tool in the shop where i had to wear both ear plugs and my mickey mouse muffs. After the conversion I got by with just the ear plugs like I do with every other tool. Even so, $2K is a chunk to swallow so i can understand the reluctance.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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John, as to the power, I bought the Jet jointer planer with straight knives and later converted to segmented style. For the Jet conversion, they just changed the pulley size, so if you decide to do the conversion, that may be an option for you. I didn't minded honing the 12 inch blades ( never had a deep knick ) but hated setting the knives, thrilled to have converted.
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(09-13-2024, 04:39 PM)fredhargis Wrote: I just want to mention you didn't toss in the noise reduction with the segmented head. Before I converted my planer it was the only tool in the shop where i had to wear both ear plugs and my mickey mouse muffs. After the conversion I got by with just the ear plugs like I do with every other tool. Even so, $2K is a chunk to swallow so i can understand the reluctance.
Thanks Fred. Noise reduction would be nice. My DC probably makes more noise than the planer, though, but any reduction would be appreciated regardless of the source.
John
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(09-13-2024, 06:10 PM)barryvabeach Wrote: John, as to the power, I bought the Jet jointer planer with straight knives and later converted to segmented style. For the Jet conversion, they just changed the pulley size, so if you decide to do the conversion, that may be an option for you. I didn't minded honing the 12 inch blades ( never had a deep knick ) but hated setting the knives, thrilled to have converted.
Thanks Barry. I'll have to look to see if that's an option. I can't remember how large the drive pulley is; hopefully, large enough that I could go with a smaller one. It'll have to be the drive pulley because the driven pulley just clears under the cover at the top of the cabinet. If this turns out to be a viable option, it will make the decision to go forward much more attractive financially. Thanks very much. I doubt I would have thought of it. Planing speed will go down, obviously, but the cuts/inch should remain unchanged so quality should be unchanged as well.
John
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3KW is 4 horsepower. My 12” jointer with a segmented head runs off its 3 HP motor no problem
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(09-13-2024, 09:56 PM)BarryO Wrote: 3KW is 4 horsepower. My 12” jointer with a segmented head runs off its 3 HP motor no problem
Yeah, makes no sense that 4 HP isn't enough on a 14" J/P, but so it is. The motor will bog down to almost zero and trip the overload if I push it too hard.
John
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(09-14-2024, 11:09 AM)jteneyck Wrote: Yeah, makes no sense that 4 HP isn't enough on a 14" J/P, but so it is. The motor will bog down to almost zero and trip the overload if I push it too hard.
John
It would be interesting to measure the current when it bogs down. FYI my 12" jointer started tripping the overload when taking very light cuts. It turned out the connections at the motor controller were loose/bad. I just happened to have it running with the cover to the electrical box off with the lights out, and so the connections sparking. The connections were heating up, which was heating up the controller, which tripped because that was detected as an overload.
“Those who think the world began less than 10000 yrs ago are worse than ignorant … deluded to the point of perversity, they are denying not only the facts of biology but those of physics, geology, cosmology, archaeology, history & chemistry.” – R. Dawkins
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