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Hi Isaac. I found similar issues trying to use True Oil on quite a number of our Aust. species of timber. In the end I just gave up trying to use it, and reverted back to shellac. Through experience, I found the best way to manage shellac on saw handles was to thin the mix right down so an even coat could be best managed especially around the intricate areas of the handle. For me the basic guide to getting the right ratio of mix was if the applicator started to grab or catch as I applied a coat to the whole handle it needed further thinning.
Stewie;
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Thanks Isaac. Good to know.
-- Andy -- Old Chinese proverb say: If you think something can't be done, don't interrupt man who is doing it.
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Issac,
IMO, one of your nicest saws! How does the burl hold up as compared to more typical woods? If the saw is inadvertently dropped would it be more prone to fracture?
T.
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Stewie, I suspected that it had a lot to do with the user. I'll practice more, but I really do like the wax. Have you tried it on any of yours? It looks like you have some good candidates down there.
Tony, I did not buy the wood, so I don't know if it was sold as burl or not. After working with it, I would not call this a burl. There was some grain swirling, but it was nowhere near the tangled mess that you see in a burl. Maybe it grew near a fudge or branch? I'm guessing that the color difference is sapwood and heartwood, but having never seen it before, that's just speculation.
I had no concern with strength on this one. On some woods that is a valid concern, and I will remind the customer that they may want to avoid stressing it unduly. I have never tested one to failure, but shaping them is usually a pretty good stress test. When I do the rough shaping with rasps, you can see and feel the wood flexing. I don't try to baby it, since I hope that any wood that makes it through that should do ok in use.
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Regardless Issac, one of the prettiest made by anyone!
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I agree. Stunningly attractive and innovative.
Eric.
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You're good, you know it, otherwise you wouldn't show it.
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Isaac S said:
I don't try to baby it, since I hope that any wood that makes it through that should do ok in use.
I have the same philosophy with making wooden spoons. If it survives the process of its own making, it will survive in normal use.
Oh, and caranuba wax is a typical finish for briar burl as well, though an oil or dye is often used to bring out the figure first. It holds up pretty well, as waxes go. I still want to see what you could do with some briar.
Steve S.
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Bibliophile 13 said:
I have the same philosophy with making wooden spoons. If it survives the process of its own making, it will survive in normal use.
Hey, that's a better way of saying what I said. You should try your hand at writing...
Bibliophile 13 said:
I still want to see what you could do with some briar.
So do I, but the darn pipemakers cut it all up before I can get my hands on it. If I ever come across a piece with the right figure that is large enough, I'll probably try it.
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Issac:
Another set of accolades from another South Paw - - -
I too love the live edge, and I try to incorporate some sap wood and burl / swirl wherever possible in my projects - this saw does it for me on every account - WELL DONE!!
Dave B
