Your Favorite Spokeshaves and why?
#71
The mouth can be closed up by using a thin plastic shim behind  the blade.
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#72
(12-31-2016, 01:20 PM)Bibliophile 13 Wrote: Since I posted in reply to the original query, I have written up my thoughts on my blog: Link here.

One thing that differentiates a lot of spokeshaves is the length of the handles.  Some, like the LV the Stanleys have longer handles, which can be held bicycle-style--each handle in a fist.  Others, like the LN Boggs and the old Preston and its clones have much shorter handles.  I find these uncomfortable (I've only played with them briefly at woodworking shows), but they're designed so that you use them by wrapping your index fingers around the bodies of the shaves.  You have a little more control that way, but you also need to take a thinner shaving.  It's largely a matter of personal preference, but it's not something you're likely to notice until you have the shaves in your hands.

Very useful, especially info about one hand operation, thanks a lot!

I am trying to decide between low-angle and standard spokeshave from LV, could you please give us your opinion on the following:
1. ease of sharpening -- standard should be quite easy, but is low angle easy enough?
2. how practical is one hand operation on standard?
3. from what I understand while working with standard you can see how shavings start.
  But with low-angle [when pulled] shavings leave from the behind of the tool -- does it
  impair feel/control (for beginner)?
4. Is flat sole standard enough for shaping gently concave curves like in axe handle, or do I need curved one for that?

Regards.
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#73
(01-01-2017, 01:48 PM)MattP Wrote: I have the LN round and flat bottom spokeshaves. I hate them with a white hot passion. Every time I try to set one of them up, I want to jam it down the throat of the person who made it. Maybe one day I'll get the knack.

I'd be willing to perform a proper disposal of those hated objects for you, Matt.  Just let me know, and I can send my address
Yes
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#74
(01-04-2017, 04:26 PM)Bill_Houghton Wrote: I'd be willing to perform a proper disposal of those hated objects for you, Matt.  Just let me know, and I can send my address
Yes

What a kind and generous offer, sir. Such nice people you meet on this forum; that's why I love this place.
If you're gonna be one, be a Big Red One.
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#75
1. ease of sharpening -- standard should be quite easy, but is low angle easy enough?
Standard is easy enough.  The low angle is a bit of a challenge, especially when stropping.  It comes with instructions on building a simple jig to hold the blade for grinding, which you won't have to do often.  I do manage to keep the low angle blade sharp, but honestly, it's a pain.  I highly recommend the PM-V11 blade, as it's easier to sharpen than the A2. 

2. how practical is one hand operation on standard?
Not quite as easy as with the low-angle, but reasonably easy.  The low-angle is significantly lighter, and its center of gravity is lower, hence it's easy to handle one-handed.  But the regular one is manageable. 

3. from what I understand while working with standard you can see how shavings start.
  But with low-angle [when pulled] shavings leave from the behind of the tool -- does it
  impair feel/control (for beginner)?
Not really.  The total footprint of each tool is about the same.  That, and once you get comfortable with the shave, you're moving it so quickly that it doesn't really matter.  

4. Is flat sole standard enough for shaping gently concave curves like in axe handle, or do I need curved one for that?
The flat sole is just fine for most of your curved work.  It can handle any convex curve, and any gentle concave curve.  The low-angle can handle a slightly tighter radius than the regular LV, but not by much.  When you're looking at a tight concave curve, you're also looking at reversing grain, and I find that a rasp and file work much better than a cutting tool in such cases.  Round bottomed shaves are finicky and difficult to use.  The flat-soled is the one you want.      

On balance, if I were beginning all over again, I'd get the regular LV shave.  It's nicely made, easy to use, and easy to adjust.  The low-angle one is a little more difficult to adjust and harder to get used to using.  That said, I use both ALL the time, and I wouldn't want to be without either one.  The PM-V11 blade was worth the extra money to me in the long run, but I use my spokeshaves for production work, so to me, time lost on sharpening is lost money.  The O1 blade works just fine for normal hobbyist use. 
Steve S.
------------------------------------------------------
Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot

Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
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#76
Thanks a lot, a very thorough answer!
I hope you could find the time to extend your blog entry with it, for others to find.
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#77
I never provided an opinion on the low angle spokeshave because, frankly, I've hardly ever used one. I purchased a LV low angle shave eons ago when I was just into wookworking, and I found it kind of odd to use. Well, this thread got me to thinking, so I pulled it out last night and started to use it. It's a dream. You're not going to hog out large shavings using it, but it was pretty easy to use and the feedback was a lot better than with the wood-handled spokeshaves. IMO, if you're doing a lot of shaping on round stock, you will be best served by a draw knife (heavy stock removal), spokeshave (medium shaping with more control), low angle spokeshave (fine shaping), and rasps (medium-to-fine shaping). No one tool can do it all. If I had to eliminate one tool, it would be the low angle shave. This philosophy is consistent with Schwarz's coarse-medium-fine approach with hand planes. For some work, I only use rasps (saw handles, table legs). Scrapers help get rid of rasp marks if you're not into sandpaper.
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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#78
(01-04-2017, 10:51 PM)Bibliophile 13 Wrote: 2. how practical is one hand operation on standard?
Not quite as easy as with the low-angle, but reasonably easy.  The low-angle is significantly lighter, and its center of gravity is lower, hence it's easy to handle one-handed.  But the regular one is manageable. 
Steve,
Those are some great answers.  Thanks for taking the time to do that.
I just have one question/comment.  I have tried to use bevel down spokeshaves one-handed and have never been very successful.  I take my spokeshaves with me when we go away and never have great workholding available.  I try to rig stuff together, but it's never the same as having a bench vise or shaving horse.  So, I find myself trying to hold the blank in one hand and using the spokeshaves with the other.  Yes, I realize it may not be the safest thing to do.  It seems like it works if I can manage to get my fingers centered on the blade.  But, even then the results are never any better than I get with a knife.
Is there a trick?
Steve
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#79
Stanley No. 151 is as advanced as I like, and it's almost too gimmicky. I actually prefer a draw knife. I think it's much more intimate with what you are removing, and that closeness gives me greater control. Also pulling toward me has always worked much better than stroking away from myself. I think for each person that is a distinction you want to figure out first, and that knowledge will also push you toward the right tool for you.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya

GW
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#80
Re: one-handed use. You can't take a wide or thick shaving this way. It's best for light, finishing cuts. Think breaking sharp edges or rounding over the end of a spoon handle.

It does help to hold the shave in your fingers and grip the work with your thumb. Close your hand, and you pull the shave into the work. This is very effective for short cuts. I'll see if I can find a picture to illustrate.
Steve S.
------------------------------------------------------
Tradition cannot be inherited, and if you want it you must obtain it by great labour.
- T. S. Eliot

Tutorials and Build-Alongs at The Literary Workshop
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