18th Century Secretary Update

[Halfathumb]

This is where I'm at today. Over the past year or so I've been asking questions about several aspects of this build and I appreciate all of the help. This morning I've been making the locking devices for 2 of the 7 secret compartments.
As you can see I've stained and put on the top coat as I go along. The only problem with this is that I forgot I still have to glue in some strips for the drawer stops and for the 4 valances that will be at the top of pigeon holes above the small drawers.

The prospect door is just sitting there until I get the hinge blanks I ordered yesterday. That's holding up somethings like making the box that'll sit behind the door. But the diagram in the FWW mag. shows a 3/16 panel on the same side of the hinges. But I want to wait till I mount the door to insure everything fits properly.

I'm also working on the drop down desk which has veneer that matches the big drawer fronts. I've already messed the veneer up a little so if I can't get that to look right I'll have to find some nice looking walnut to remake that part.

The desk supports that slide out on both sides will have a brass pull which brings up a question for everyone here. What epoxy will work to hold a brass screw in walnut?

Another issue. I've never installed locks that will be inserted in the desk lid and the door. Any suggestions will be appreciated on lining up the holes for the key going through the wood and meeting up with the lock.

Thanks for looking.

[Scoony]

On the desk I made, the brass pulls simply screwed into the walnut with no epoxy used.

For lining up the key hole, maybe a few ways to do this, I use a combo or double square and set it to match the top edge of the lock to the center point of the raised pointed nib (key post for lack of better term) that fits inside the hollow tip of the key. Transfer this mark to the lid being careful to use the same reference spot on the lid since the edge of those locks are angled.

I drill a small hole for that center key post and use that to locate the lock and mark where the remaining wood needs to be removed. Once the lock is mortised in, I then adjust and shape the hole as needed with a small round rasp and small square rasp.

[Martin S.]

Half,

Wow! That looks great.

To others reading this thread: click the link and look at all the pics. It is well worth your time!

Really nice, keep posting your progress.

[Halfathumb]

Hold the compliments! I just discovered that I may have a problem between the desk lid and the top drawer.
1st. The article calls for the writing surface to be 7/8". But I didn't have any true 4/4 stock so the writing surface is 3/4" exact.
2nd. The rabbit on the top of the drawer front is 3/8" and it should be 1/4". I think I can fix that but I don't know about how well the lid is going to fit when it's open.

[Scoony]

Yeah! fitting the lid is tricky. For hinge placement, I started with the hinge placed a bit far out on the desk surfaced and moved it in, cutting away more material and fitting until it was right. Had to go back and fill in some of the screw holes after it was fitted correctly.

I had to email Glen Huey several times for tips on fitting the lid. Lost those emails after a computer crashed.

[Halfathumb]

Scoony said:

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I had to email Glen Huey several times for tips on fitting the lid. Lost those emails after a computer crashed.

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Do you work for the IRS?

[Paul Murphy]

Halfathumb said:

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Hold the compliments! I just discovered that I may have a problem between the desk lid and the top drawer.
1st. The article calls for the writing surface to be 7/8". But I didn't have any true 4/4 stock so the writing surface is 3/4" exact.
2nd. The rabbit on the top of the drawer front is 3/8" and it should be 1/4". I think I can fix that but I don't know about how well the lid is going to fit when it's open.

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Beautiful piece! Don't worry, if I understand what you are describing, the lid/drawer situation is fixable - in more than one way.

If the fixed desk surface is 3/4" and the lid is 7/8", one way to fix that is to glue a 1"x1/8"xfull-width" strip to the underside of your fixed desk surface. When open, a 7/8" lid will be flush top and bottom with the viewable edge of the fixed desk edge.
Now trim 1/8" from the drawer top surfaces to fit the drawer to the new opening.
If you want the top "kicker", you'll have to match the grain and glue a strip extending back from the opening to the rear of the case above both drawer sides...kind of like cross-banded veneer about 1" wide under the fixed writing surface. Clamp the "drawer kicker" veneer with opposing wedges.

Same deal with the lid supports, and more than one way to handle it. Full length 1/8" veneer under the fixed writing surface, or shim the rear top surface of the lid support for a couple inches.

If you do a magnified scale drawing of the hinge/lid/writing surface, you'll see exactly how to mount your lid. the area you are looking at is an edge view of the hinge pivot point and all the stuff in a 3" radius. Key to visualizing this is the hinge doesn't close so that the inner surfaces touch at 180 from full open writing position. Therefore there is some offset occuring depending on where you put the hinge center axis, and what gap you want from the writing surface @ full open writing position.
Sounds worse than it is to draw, because you'll see what I'm trying to describe before you ever finish drawing the lid open and lid closed hinge views .

[Gary G™]

Whoa!
The front of the cabinet is absolutely stunning.

[Scoony]

Now that I reread your post, I remember that I did have to remove the lip on the top drawer and reroute the 3/16" bead profile so that the lid would function.

The lower drawers have lipped fronts (top and sides).

The top drawer has lips only on the sides.

[Halfathumb]

Paul. I feel sorry for you because earlier today I was thinking right along those lines. If things go wrong with the drawer I have enough veneer left to completely remake it if I must.
Plus I'm making the desk lid out of 3/4" stock which hopefully will work and I'll have to make minimal changes to the drawer and opening.