Post your favorite DIY Tablesaw box joint jigs!
#11
All: I have a table saw and now I want to do finger joints!

Please post your favorite most effective/efficient finger jointing jig!
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#12
Shopnotes has this one:

http://www.shopnotes.com/files/issues/11...joints.pdf

They had a more complex version I built that looks like this: http://cerealport.net/woodworking/SN_BoxJointJig1.jpg

Main difference is the front part of the sled comes off so different width finger joint keys can be used. I made it using leftover plywood years ago during a layoff when I did not spend money on anything. Probably more complex than needed, but that's kind of what makes Shopnotes different.

Have used it a few times for shelves and drawers. Box joints are a good option for dovetails sometimes and they have a look that works with certain styles.

Mike
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#13
jgourlay said:

...Please post your favorite most effective/efficient finger jointing jig!



Some questions:

1. What size boxes do you envision making? 3-inch to 16-inch tall?
2. What size box joints do you think you might want to machine on the table saw? 3/32" to 1", or maybe smaller or larger?
3. Do you think you may want to make boxes with only finger joints, or possibly also with dovetails at some point?
4. What would you project the largest box you will plan to make? Maybe larger than 16-inch, or even larger than 24-inch tall?

The reason I ask: Finger joints can/are/have been a source of frustration to many woodworkers. If you can answer some of these questions, you are likely well on your way to deciding how to proceed.

Al
Blog: Sandal Woods - Fine Woodworking

Frank Klausz, to The Schwarz (WIA 2010): "...If YOU guys keep doing what you’re doing, this thing is not gonna die..."
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#14
Funny you should ask. Surfing YT last night, I ran intoTHIS and thought it was a well thought out not overly complicated box joint jig. The gentleman, I thought, did a very well video explaining his jig. He also has a link for free plans. Just thought you might be interested. BTW, congrats on the new saw.

Johnet
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#15
jestrada said:


Funny you should ask. Surfing YT last night, I ran intoTHIS and thought it was a well thought out not overly complicated box joint jig. The gentleman, I thought, did a very well video explaining his jig. He also has a link for free plans. Just thought you might be interested. BTW, congrats on the new saw.

Johnet




That dudes wall is away too organized!!!
But a very good explanation and looks like something I'm gonna build soon.
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#16
This is the one I made from ShopNotes.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lmrGa_LDxoE
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#17
Which issue of Shop Notes, Please?
George

if it ain't broke, you're not tryin'
Quando omni flunkus, moritati.
Red Green

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#18
This say Vol2 issue 8?
http://www.shopnotes.com/plans/box-joint-jig/
"There is no such thing as stupid questions, just stupid people"
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#19
This isn't mine but is pretty much what I use. A piece of scrap wood and a small wooden pin attached to the miter gauge that probably came with the saw. Google "Miter gauge box joint jig" for plenty of examples.



The fancy ones are nice but I can build one in 10 minutes. Use a rip blade for the square tooth profile and clean bottom it gives.
RD
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"Boy could I have used those pocket screws!" ---Duncan Phyfe
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#20
Sandal Woods said:


[blockquote]jgourlay said:

...Please post your favorite most effective/efficient finger jointing jig!



Some questions:

1. What size boxes do you envision making? 3-inch to 16-inch tall?
2. What size box joints do you think you might want to machine on the table saw? 3/32" to 1", or maybe smaller or larger?
3. Do you think you may want to make boxes with only finger joints, or possibly also with dovetails at some point?
4. What would you project the largest box you will plan to make? Maybe larger than 16-inch, or even larger than 24-inch tall?

The reason I ask: Finger joints can/are/have been a source of frustration to many woodworkers. If you can answer some of these questions, you are likely well on your way to deciding how to proceed.

Al


[/blockquote]

Al, just small things in thin stock. If I decide I want a box made from 1/2" thick or larger stock, and larger than say....4" tall, I'll handcut dovetails. For rough n' ready work in ply wood, I typically glue/screw or I'll do really fast dovetails that despite being raggedy and ugly have proven to last at least decade.

It's possible that I will find fingerjointing pleasurable enough that I'll want to replace some dovetail work with them, but not at this point. Dovetails: I like making boxes that are 2-4" tall, from stock that it 1/4-1/8" thick. I find that while I am able (just) to cut nice DT in these sizes, they hold poorly and lack the visual impact they have in larger sizes of stock/work.
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