Finally started on the garage/shop

[Axehandle]

Here it is for now. It is ready for trusses at this point. They wont be here for another 2 weeks so I will probably pour the concrete in the meantime.

Other than calling in an outside source to drill the post holes, all the work has been done by the wife and myself. Size is 24x40. It will have 6/12 vaulted trusses and the eave height is 10 ft 1 1/2 inches. I have not decided on roofing or siding yet but the roof and sides are going to have OSB sheathing.

[museumguy]

Great start. Keep us posted.

[Robert Adams]

I see that type of building built in various parts of the country. To me it's really strange. How do you find 4x4s that long that are straight and how do you keep the termites from eating them. I see termites go after treated lumber here. Here a post in the ground would last 5-10 years before needing to be replaced.

I'm just used to standard construction where you pour the slab first then frame it. I have seen some pole barns built totally backwards in the mid west where the poles went up the roof on then the walls and the last was the slab.

For roofing and sheathing the quickest and most durable would be steel r-panel. It also adds allot of strength to the structure and requires little internal framing.

[comfun1]

Looks good, can't wait for more pics!

[Axehandle]

They are not 4x4s they are 6x6s. And they are treated properly for below grade. That is the key. You need to read the label on the end of the wood. It should say UC4B. This is treated for below ground contact and is specified for permanent wood foundations. Termites will not touch this stuff. Mine I got from a marine lumber sawmill who pressure treats with CCA on site. CCA is restricted for residential use anymore but can still be used for permanent wood foundations which technically a pole barn has. Mine are treated .60 CCA They have 2.5 CCA for saltwater immersion for dock pilings and other saltwater dock material. They are treated to 2.5 because it prevents saltwater wood boring organisms from attacking them. .60 CCA, when used, has a long history of lasting quite awhile and keeping termites away. Still though, I am going to treat it all with Termidor.

You CANNOT find UC4B treated lumber at Home Depot. Many people think they are OK for below ground but they are not. They will not even be sufficient for fence posts for too long. UC4A or UC4B should be used even for fence posts. Properly treated, a pole barn post will not rot out for a very long time and mine are warranted for 40 years. Who knows if the company will be around then but it does inspire confidence and everybody who gets marine lumber from them is happy who I have talked to.

This construction method makes the concrete investment minimal. There are 10 inch thick and 20 inch wide footings that the posts are resting on. Other than that you pour a concrete slab on the inside of it either right now or after the structure is finished. Im building mine a bit different in that I am not nailing any girts to the outside of the posts. I am doing bookshelf girts and I am doing scissor trusses on 2 foot centers. Im not afraid of framing. Im not building this as easy and cheaply as possible. It is going to have roof and wall sheathing and will be buttoned up tighter than my house as long as the garage doors seal right.

[CLETUS]

Only a single truss carrier? I've never seen a 2x laid on top of the posts.

[Axehandle]

Single truss carrier: There is going to be two. One more inside the posts. Extraneously though to appease the code Nazis because I am going to have upright studs in addition to horizontal studs every two feet. This thing is going to be built to not fall down. OK, OK?

Here is the inspiration for my design and construction. This will help you understand what I mean by both vertical and horizontal studs.

http://www.precisionbarnbuilders.com/Bui...Steps.html

That is a 2x6 on top only to help tie things together and give me a walk way for when I set trusses. That is why there is only one truss carrier now. I am going to put the other one on after the trusses are set so I can miter it to the angle of the vault and sit it up tight into the bottom stringer.

The garage door openings are already doubled up. They are going to be 9' after I wrap them. 8' foot post spacing for the rest.

[Robert Adams]

I work in construction and those posts aren't available from any of the yards here. The GC is from a part of the country that builds pole barns and he tried finding them locally. He ended up with a metal building as it was cheaper. Most likely they aren't available as they could only be used outside city's where there are no permits as its not a allowable construction method in any city I have seen. No wood is allowed to contact the soil. Even if it doesn't rot or provide food it's still a pathway for termites to follow.

I'll take your word on the termites as I have seen them go through railroad ties.

Just never understood doing the slab after construction. Too much work involved.

[Axehandle]

Lots of municipalities and counties have post frame building standards online. Mine does not but a search of "post frame building standards" shows a few. i live just barely out of city limits and I have a permit.

[museumguy]

I hear ya. The county I live in didn't have building codes until the 1990's. Weird. A lot of septic issues as the result of things not having to be inspected.

Fast forward to 2 years ago. I was replacing my front steps and rear deck. Because of some issues with a neighbor, I pulled permits. It was an interesting experience. I learned a lot. The most interesting thing was the footing requirements for code. I followed the code, word for word. No issues during inspections.

Can't wait to see your finished project as well as progression photos.

Thanks for sharing with us.