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Looking at making end tables and maybe a coffee table using some round and tapered (maple) legs I have. I'd like to keep the round and taper over the entire length of the legs but not sure how to attach an apron to the legs.
Mortising the legs is reasonably straightforward. I figured on making a sled to hold the leg flat on the router table and rout the mortise down from the top end of the leg. The ends of the apron need to be angled to match the taper of the leg and not a big deal. The issue is the tenon.
If you form a standard tenon on the end of a 3/4" thick board, the shoulders won't conform to the rounded surface of the leg and leave a noticeable gap. Because the legs are tapered, the gap will be larger at the bottom edge of the apron than at the top making it look worse.
The only idea I've come up with is to make the tenon with no shoulder on the outside face. There'll be a gap on the inside but who cares on a 23" tall table. The only catch is you need good clean edges on the mortise since those will be seen.
Maybe I'm missing something and there's another or better way.
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Perhaps the easiest way is to use loose tenons. You can align the mortise in the end of the apron parallel to the long sides. It's easier than cutting tenons with angled shoulders.
For the legs, cut the mortises parallel to the floor by using a jig to support the leg one its centers. I can make a sketch if you need it.
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If there is enough overhang on the top you could bridle the legs to the apron. You could also make a small flat on the leg where the aprons meet it. Match the taper and just as wide and long as the apron stock is thick and deep. That will leave a very small shoulder at the bottom on the leg.
Blackhat
Bad experiences come from poor decisions. So do good stories.
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I think there is a reason why a round leg has a flat at the top if a skirt is used. You will have to make the skirts end rounded, so it marries the outer edge of the join. Doing so while also having a tenon coming from it is a bit of handwork. It does scream loose tenon joinery.
Show pics of the assembly, and how you got there if you do stay the course. If I was stuck with fully round legs I would insert them directly into the top, and build the skirt around their perimeter, like a fence around trees. I have seen this done, and never thought it very attractive. Everything was into a padded top, usually on a round table.
Worst thing they can do is cook ya and eat ya
GW
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Typically in cases where a stretcher or apron meets a round leg, the surface of the leg gets a flat machined to receive the shoulder of the mating piece. You can see that in Mario Rodriguez's Scandinavian Kitchen Table from FWW241. You might have a look at that table, anyway. Blackhat's suggestion of a bridle joint is good. Mr. Rodriguez's table uses that method to attach the aprons to the legs.
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First: mortise the legs BEFORE turning, you will thank me after.
Loose tenons are a fine idea here, but it is pretty easy to cut full tenons by hand here. If I were doing this, I'd cut the tenon a bit short so I could slide it into place and be able to scribe the shoulders where they meet the leg.
Another tip: don't try to carve the shoulders to conform to the tapered curve. Leave the shoulders 1/32" long and back cut them toward the tenon. This pointed edge on the outside faces of the apron will then 'crush' into the leg as you clamp, minimizing any gaps. This is how stair makers let treads and risers into the stringer without showing gaps.
Ralph
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handi said:
First: mortise the legs BEFORE turning, you will thank me after.
From the OP:
Quote:
Looking at making end tables and maybe a coffee table using some round and tapered (maple) legs I have.
I read that to mean that the legs are already turned and tapered. After reading Ralph's post, I guess my interpretation was incorrect.
It is good advice to cut the joinery before turning or tapering.
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House the mortise and tenon?????
Train to be miserable...
that way when the real misery starts you won't notice.
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The legs are already turned. A local guy is selling turned, solid maple legs for $5. A pair of end tables and maybe a coffee table is on my list so I picked up 14 legs (2 are test pieces).
Making a sled to route the leg mortise is not that bad. Years ago I built Norm's candle stand with a sliding dovetail to attach the legs. Even with a 1/16 shoulder, you can seen a slight gap where the legs join the round base. It was fine on that piece but would look rather sloppy near the top of a table using light colored wood such as maple.
I like the Mario Rodriguez (FWW 241) approach of routing a mortise with a flat to accept the stretcher. Basically he ends up burying the end of the stretcher into the leg. I think I'll try that approach first.
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I built these chairs 20 years ago using DaveR1's suggestion of loose tenons for all the leg/stretcher joints. Every joint is rounded, but not of the same radius which added to the challenge. I cut all the mortises before shaping the various parts. Next I shaped the legs, then traced their profile onto the end of each stretcher. Using a drum sander I radius the ends of the stretchers to match the leg, then I shaped the stretchers. It all worked out pretty well and the chairs are still doing fine.
John
