Ok...sharpening jigs

[Window Guy]

blackhat said:

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This is getting better and better.

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+1 .......... nice work Jim.


Steve

[Boatman53]

So it turns out most of my mental designing last night didn't really work very well. Back to the drawing board. I did have some success however. I fitted one to my Tormek, and now can hold these if I ever need to.





The fish tail also works in the mortise jig.



Jim

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Jim

I have been sharpening and using a bunch of mortice chisels lately. In recent years I was using Paul Seller's freehand round bevel method (as this was the simpler freehand solution on chisels). The only honing guide I had used (because it was recommended by Chris Schwarz) was the Kell#1. Well, I have the upgraded wheels on mine and, regardless of which side you place the chisel, it is a pain in the butt to use. This was the reason I suggested making a jig for a mortice chisel.

I do not think that you need to add a V to the underside of the holder, as we discussed. As long as you can set the chisel straight by eye, that should suffice. Keep it simple.

I later realised that the idea for the V was influenced by the SharpSkate guide I have. This is the best guide I have used for a mortice chisel, but it can be a pain to set straight - and that is due to the V! But it otherwise works very well.



The SharpSkate hone side-to-side ...



For those wanting to freehand a round bevel, here is my "guide", a block with a 35 degree bevel ...



Regards from Perth

Derek

[Boatman53]

That's an interesting jig Derek, I never saw one like that. Did you get those photos I sent?
Jim

[Boatman53]

I've been working on this spokeshave jig and as I said went back to the drawing board. It now can hold a blade within 1/2" from the bevel and easily adjust the angle (with a scale) from 20 to 30 degrees. But I'm having trouble finding the part I need. Here is a screen shot from Carrlane Co. it's close and looks brass but isn't. I'm looking for brass, they have stainless and might go with that to start with but really like the look of brass. Currently I need a 1/4-20 screw, but it could be larger. Length under the knob about an 1 1/4" to the bottom of the pad. Any help finding this part would be appreciated.

Jim

[Boatman53]

No one can help me find a brass thumb screw with a pressure plate?
Anyway, I did some tweaking on the one for chisels and I think I'm about done with the design. The last conversation I had with Derek concerned going from the grinder to the stone without removing the tool. This is how things look now. I've made a short run of four two will be sent out next week, I'll be keeping one so one is available if it strikes anyone's facy. If there is more interest I'll do another batch. If there is a lot of interest I'll order a bunch from a CNC shop and have them anodized and go into production.
For your approval.






















And not a single slotted screw.
Jim

I forgot to say the geometry is such that a 1/4" projection of the blade is a 30 degree bevel, and every additional 1/8" is another degree less. So 3/8" is 29 degrees and 1/2" is 28 degrees etc. thickness of the blade does not change a thing since it registers off the back of the tool.

[Steve Friedman]

Jim,

Looks very clever and well thought out. Now get back to work on the spokeshave blade jig!



Steve

[Boatman53]

That's up next Steve and will also be able to go from the Tormek straight to the finishing/polishing stone.
Jim

[Steve Friedman]

Boatman53 said:

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That's up next Steve and will also be able to go from the Tormek straight to the finishing/polishing stone.
Jim

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I figured. Just couldn't resist teasing you about it.

Steve

[Gregory of Sherwood Forest]

I love that it'll register on my Tormek!!!

I don't know if I'm in love with this thing yet, since I haven't tried it myself, but I'm heavily in like with it.

BTW- I'm looking for the swivel screws in brass, but so far, no luck.