Ok...sharpening jigs
#71
Thanks, I can only check in sporadically thru the weekend. I'm at a robotics compitition with my sons high school robotics team. This years contest is called "recycle rush" if anyone want to check it out, we are team 28.
Jim
http://ancorayachtservice.com/ home of the Chain Leg Vise.
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#72
I hardly use sharpening guides even though I have the MK II, Sharpskate and the Eclipse. But, I want one of Jim's honing guide. It's the most brilliant design that I have ever seen...great delicate work. Especially the one that can handle skewed (check my woodnet id) and hopefully wider blades.

I have a question for Jim, what about those vintage wooden plane tapered blades and/or Japanese? Do you think they could fit in your jig? If not do you think maybe you could come up with an additional piece(?) to make them work. I wouldn't know how...
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#73


On small blades like this and those of similar size, you can clean the oil off the blade and either try hot-gluing it to the edge of a small block of wood, or if that doesn't hold, use a small blob of epoxy to glue it to the block..use the block as a "hand hold" and take the blade to a hone...or clamp the block in the vise and take the hone to the blade...then remove it after sharpening the bevel side, and repeat the process on the other side...slow but it will work.....

Another idea is make a block of wood with a shallow "cut-out" {Like inlaying a hinge} the size of the blade, and inset strong earth magnets into it to hold the blade while honing free-hand.

edit....
Personally, I use a slow-speed belt grinder. I just sharpened the blade for a #53 spokeshave on it..Held it freehand..
Often Tested.    Always Faithful.      Brothers Forever

Jack Edgar, Sgt. U.S. Marines, Korea, America's Forgotten War
Get off my lawn !
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#74
Skewdeg tapered blades should be no problem. When I get home on Sunday I'll see if I can find one around the shop, I think I have one in the bone yard.

Jack earlier on I offered up a suggestion for sharpening that very type of blade. But yes there are many different ways to hold blades.
Jim
http://ancorayachtservice.com/ home of the Chain Leg Vise.
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#75
Well even though my beta testers haven't even received the prototypes yet I decided to put out a YouTube video of the two jigs in action. It can be found here. http://youtu.be/BfGOfFRbLb4

Never been comfortable in front of the camera, but tell me what you think. Is it worth taking further? I am researching patent info already, but not sure if it is worth it.
Jim
http://ancorayachtservice.com/ home of the Chain Leg Vise.
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#76
Edit the link to get rid of the period at the end. Then the link works.

Great video!
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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#77
Thanks Rich, fixed it. I wonder if the twenty or so people that looked here since I posted it actually found it.
Jim
http://ancorayachtservice.com/ home of the Chain Leg Vise.
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#78
You're great. I've never known a movie star!!
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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#79
Jim, I watched the video. Definitely some good looking designs. Just a thought: could the wheels on the chisel jig be moved closer to the clamp knob? That would let you use more of the stone.
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#80
Hi Joe, thanks for the comment. Everything about these comes down to how to fit everything. If you back up the thread, the first version had the wheels outboard and they could have been closer but the new body is two inches wide so with outboard wheels you would need a wider stone. As it is the clamp pressure bar misses the wheels by less the an 1/8" when clamping the thick mortise chisels. So no it can't go closer unless the wheel diameter was smaller, but that has other issues. As it was set up in the video the tip of the chisel to the wheels was 4" I was working only one end of the stone because I knew it was a little high. 4" blade to wheels means that almost 1/2 of an 8" stone can be used in turn.
Jim
http://ancorayachtservice.com/ home of the Chain Leg Vise.
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