Hide Glue question
#11
I'm building a Hope Chest with dovetails, my 3rd/ 1 per year for granddaughters, and am considering using hide glue this time because it will be in the mid/high 80's in the shop come glue up time. In the past its been much cooler (70's) and it was a real scramble, with 3 helpers, applying titebond glue and getting it clamped up before it set.
So, I'm thinking of using Hide Glue this time because of its longer set/open time. Question: What are the pro's and con's between using Hot hide glue and Liquid hide glue and what are your recommendations and cautions. I've never used hide glue.

Thanks - Dave
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#12
Hot hide glue sets up quickly so will be a bit tough with a lot of dovetails.

Liquid hide glue has a long open time and allows you to take your time with the glue up. The you have to wait a bit longer before cleaning up the joints.

The issues that i have with hide glue with the longer open time is that drips on the floor will find their way to the bottoms of your shoes and then collect all the junk on the floor. White and yellow glue dry more quickly and make lees of a mess. I am learing to be neater/cleaner with hide glue application.
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#13
These things speed up glue application to dovetails considerably and cut way down on the mess. You don't need a lot of glue to secure dovetails; a little squiggle with this applicator is all it takes. It's much neater and quicker than a brush. The cap keeps the glue fresh between applications and they clean up with hot water. I use them with yellow glue. Never tried them with hide glue. I don't see why they wouldn't work with liquid hide glue if you're determined to use it.
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#14
I have used LHG with success. Don't really see an advantage of LHG with extended PCA glue though.
John

Always use the right tool for the job.

We need to clean house.
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#15
I think the advantage of hide glue is the lack of interference with the final finish.

It has become my preferred glue.

I use "Old Brown Glue".

I like it.
...Naval Aviators, that had balz made of brass and the size of bowling balls, getting shot off the deck at night, in heavy seas, hoping that when they leave the deck that the ship is pointed towards the sky and not the water.

AD1 T. O. Cronkhite
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#16
My method is to use Tightbond III and glue up one corner first and let set (obviously you need to ensure they're square). Then that leaves the other three corners, but that's easy. Glue one corner, install the floor and glue the other two corners - make sure you have the box oriented correctly.

Works every time.

Joel
USN (Corpsman) 1968-1972
USAF Retired Aug 31, 1994
Santa Rosa County, Fl Retired Jun 1, 2012
Now just a hobbiest enjoying woodworking!
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#17
I like liquid hide glue, having used it for a complicated glue up last year. Very strong, and even reversible. That worked to my advantage when I rolled my piece out onto the driveway to catch some sun (cherry, trying to darken it slightly) a gust of wind blew it over and I had to replace a very long rail...not that bad a job with the liquid hide glue. It does have a long clamp time (don't like that) and a short shelf life (not crazy about that either), but it doesn't interfere with your finish, and has that open time for the hard stuff.
I started with absolutely nothing. Now, thanks to years of hard work, careful planning, and perseverance, I find I still have most of it left.
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#18
It is possible to extend hot hide glue up time with urea.You will have to check it out for yourself as I have seen it done but never tried urea myself.I use hot hide glue a lot .I have used it for dovetails but it is a problem sometimes with set up time.

mike
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#19
Thats how I mix mine. I add in urea just prior to heating it up. Need a good weight scale that measures in grams to caculate the correct amount. homestead finishes carries it and since your not using a lot of the urea, one container will last a long time.
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#20
I have done 1 corner at a time and used Unibond 800 for its loong open time - after doing a couple corners with TBIII. At my speed, TBIII is setting up before I can get 1 corner applied and locked. Leaves squaring as a real issue. For the two chests currently being built I will use epoxy. Depending on the temps I might be able to do more than 1 corner at a time.

I also worried about TBIII's getting soft at 150°. A temp like that can easily be reached in the Southwest in the back of a pickup or van. Called Franklin about it and they recommended TBII extend for open time and strength in the face of heat.

You will get the longest open times as well as high strength with UF glues such as Dap Weldwood or Unibond 800 and even longer with epoxy. The issue with UF glues is their very short shelf life.
Thanks,  Curt
-----------------
"Life can only be understood backwards; but it must be lived forwards."
      -- Soren Kierkegaard
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