Help with Avonite (aka Corian)
#7
Just looking for some knowledge on gluing it up (built up edges), and any tips you can offer. I know I can Google and surf, but I prefer experience based instruction over celebrity (i.e. money) based videos. More specifically; what glue and where do you get it? And. are there (better, specialty) router bits worth purchasing for just this one 5' top?

I have a friend/customer that was given a sheet of 1/2" in a color he likes and this will be used in lieu of P.L. for a bath vanity top. Also; I have the drop in sinks (self-rimming) that we had planned on, but should I suggest he go the under-mount route?
Sign at N.E. Vocational School Cabinetmaking Shop 1976, "Free knowledge given daily... Bring your own container"
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#8
The two part adhesive recomended by Avonite and you will need a gun and those are not cheap. Or i guess you could mix the glue by hand if you can find a way to dispense it. I worked solid surface sometimes at a shop i used to work for.
Why buy expensive bits for one 5' top. The only bit i will say you do need is the angled(whatever profile you want) sink bit.

I would not cheap out and use a drop in sink on a solid surface top.

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#9
Careful. All solid surface is NOT created equal. Some is poly and some is acrylic based. The proper adhesive for one may not be proper for another. I hope you are aware but a heads up "just in case: Avonite makes or has made both, IIRC
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#10
Not sure with Avonite, but most other brand adhesives are color specific. For any joined surfaces, you must rough them up, then use many, many , many clamps. If doing 3 layers, make sure joints are not stacked on top of each other.
Drop in bowls get nasty around the edges. talk him into an undermount.
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#11
FTR, I am Surrell certified, not Avonite.
All the same, solid surface.
First, I'm sure there is a proprietary adhesive, there is for Surrell. (Surrell is now called Formica Solid Surface)
Second, roughing up the surface is recommended, as is cleaning the joint area with denatured alcohol.
I hot glue MDF "bricks" into place to keep things from skating around when clamping.
You may need to know something about what color you're dealing with. Some colors are translucent, some are directional. Directional colors will barberpole if the correct directional orientation is not observed. The translucent colors have considerations as well.
For the most part, solid surface fabrication isn't too hard, but like woodworking there are rules. I'd try to get my hands on the Avonite Fabricator's Manual. They must have one. That manual should spell out some of the dos and don'ts.
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#12
You alsp need a lot of these spring clamps. I was certified on doing Corian, Avonite, Fountainhead and Gibraltor solid surface and all required this style clamp as the glue would shrink as it cured and these would keep a constant pressure on the joint.

You can see I had two different sizes lined upof the pony spring clamps.
"...cuttin' your presidency off right now. Just quit. Because if this is you helpin' us, then stop helpin' us."
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