Stair tread replacement
  Re: (...)
I can do the work - not an issue. I have built stairs and have had access from below. I have been asked to do a set of stairs - straight shot - between 2 walls - 6 steps. They want to replace the current carpet covered pine stairs with oak treads and skirts. Since I can't access the bottom is my only option is to fit in between the skirts? I would love to do dadoes so the stairs would be let in. Not sure I can do that here.

Any good videos out there on how to go about this? I am working without the knowledge of what is under the treads. My guess is there are 3 stringers. The current treads are not let in.


Always use the right tool for the job.

We need to clean house.
  Re: Stair tread replacement by John Mihich (I can do the work - ...)
There was a thread about cutting treads between skirts back in march; search for "Stair tread and nailer question"

This was my post;

Scoony said:
....For cutting the treads, I thinking about making a plywood track for the circular saw, and using a good blade and masking tape to prevent tear out. All I would have to do is line up the edge of the track/jig to the cut line, clamp and cut.... --------------------------------------------------------------------------------

You're almost there! Now just combine your stair tread jig and skill saw jig. Glue and staple 1/4" plywood to the bottom of your tread jig(s) (I use three.). Cut the excess off with the saw and blade you'll be using to cut the treads, then add one layer of masking tape to the edge of the saw's shoe. Remove and handle the jigs carefully after tightening the wingnuts. Clamp it on top of the tread, score with razor, and cut away. The tape will keep the cut a whisker away from the score line and give a snug fit.

When I do new treads over existing, I spread construction adhesive with a 3/16" notched trowel. If they're going on the stringers, I glue every shim, no matter how thin, and run a good 1/2" bead of adhesive. Either way, treads just get nailed with 8d's through my 15ga finish gun. If the old treads were removed, screw the risers to the back of the tread as if everything was new, if not then new 1/4" birch ply. risers will cover the front of the existing treads and hide any small gaps at the new tread. I will add that on about 50% of the stairs I do, I cut the skirtboard to fit the treads and risers. I don't need the tread jigs, this requires a long length of 1/2" baseboard and a stack of cardboard triangles.

If you've added hardwood to one or both floors, chances are the first and/or last riser will be wrong. Now would be a good time to correct that.

  Re: Stair tread replacement by John Mihich (I can do the work - ...)
The first part of this video shows between two walls. Basically they screwed plywood against both walls for the tread to rest on.and added an additional support in the middle. They replaced the riser. It looks workable.
No animals were injured or killed in the production of this post.
  Re: Stair tread replacement by John Mihich (I can do the work - ...)
When I did my stairs I built this jig to scribe the stair treads.

Its kind of hard to see, but in the bottom picture there is an arrow that shows what side goes against the riser. Then the sides are pressed to the skirts and tightened.

I then set the jig on my table saw sled and using playing cards I shimmed between the jig and the sled fence until the tee-square indicating the side of the tread was parallel to the blade. Then I put the tread on the sled and made my cut.

There are two kinds of people: Those who can extrapolate from incomplete data.

It is far better to grasp the universe as it really is than to persist in delusion, however satisfying and reassuring - Carl Sagan
  Re: Stair tread replacement by John Mihich (I can do the work - ...)
Skirt boards are installed after the treads and risers in the best stair construction.The skirt is scribed and cut ,then installed. This is not an easy job unless you have done this before.
John, you can still dado the treads and risers if you want.6 risers is not too hard. After making the set and adding a third stringer,2x6 with triangle blocks is one easy method,notch the stringer and both skirts for a 2x4 cleat.The cleat is nailed on the floor to keep the stairs from moving. The rest of the stairs can be fastened either or by the top riser and the skirts. 16d casing nails in the top riser and filled ,plus if you think you need more ,add nails to the studs thru the skirts on each side.
I have done this with a full set,13 risers so 6 would be a lot easier.
One tip to help, spread the walls with padded scrap board spreader to ease dropping the stairs into place. Sometimes two spreaders helps.
I make the spreaders about 1/2" longer than the width of the opening.


Forum Jump:

Users browsing this thread: 1 Guest(s)