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I'm in the planning process for wiring a new workshop. The plan is to install florescent fixtures suspended about 18" below the ceiling. Ceiling is 12". The lights would reside below HVAC and dust collection ductwork.
Option 1 is to run outlet boxes all aver the ceiling and purchase lights with cords & plugs.
Option 2 is to hard wire. If I understand this correctly, the NM cable would terminate at a ceiling box. You'd wire nut another cable (designed for exposed use) from the box to the light. Strain relief would be required at the box's cover and the light.
Putting outlets for things that will never be unplugged sounds silly. But installing a slew of outlets sounds easier and cheaper than all the specialty components needed to hard ware.
I'm wondering of this understanding is correct, and if there are any pro's & con's I'm not yet aware of.
Shame on the men who can court exemption from present trouble and expense at the price of their own posterity's liberty! - Samuel Adams
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In this jurisdiction, things like suspended lights that aren't subject to vibration or movement and have an alternate disconnect means can be connected with drops of BX cable.
Blackhat
Bad experiences come from poor decisions. So do good stories.
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Mandrake said:
Ceiling is 12".
Did you intend to say ceiling is 12' (ft) high?
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My shop ceilings are 11"6" high. I also have dust collection above the lights. I used 4 foot long, dual tube shop lights with the plugs. It makes it real easy to replace a fixture if it dies.
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Me too. Plugs are the way to go.
Mike
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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Mandrake said:
I'm in the planning process for wiring a new workshop. The plan is to install florescent fixtures suspended about 18" below the ceiling. Ceiling is 12". The lights would reside below HVAC and dust collection ductwork.
Option 1 is to run outlet boxes all aver the ceiling and purchase lights with cords & plugs.
Option 2 is to hard wire. If I understand this correctly, the NM cable would terminate at a ceiling box. You'd wire nut another cable (designed for exposed use) from the box to the light. Strain relief would be required at the box's cover and the light.
Putting outlets for things that will never be unplugged sounds silly. But installing a slew of outlets sounds easier and cheaper than all the specialty components needed to hard ware.
I'm wondering of this understanding is correct, and if there are any pro's & con's I'm not yet aware of.
You do not say how many. You do not say if they butted against each other to form a row. You do not say if you are going to have multiple switches.If they are being spaced equally what is the spacing or are they random placement?? If the fixture comes with a chord you can always cut the cap and hardwire into a JB. Maybe if you address some of the previous points a better answer can be offered.
John T.
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I wired it up for plugs (4 gang outlet boxes every 6 feet down the center of a 16 foot wide shop) and use the Walmart "Lights of America" $12 fixtures; surprisingly, they last about 10-15 years, and when one goes, another is put in its place. Very cost effective. Half the lights on one circuit. Also good for a ceiling mounted retractable extension cord in the middle of the shop. Has worked well for me. Code here says you have to have runner boards to staple the romex when you go across joists so figure some 1x4 pine boards into the mix. You can also move lights as needed when you change your floor design to light one area more than another.
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Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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Admiral said:
You can also move lights as needed when you change your floor design to light one area more than another.
I used the same concept, but my basement shop is L-shaped with low ceilings, so lighting concentrated over the stationary machines is needed. But one big advantage of using switched receptacles is the ability to add task lighting just about anywhere, and have them go off with the fluorescents. I often add a couple of bright reflector incandescents clipped to a joist to augment over the shaper or jointer, both of which are stored against a wall and pulled out to use, or when using the lathe, especially with odd work where the low-hanging fluorescent (with guard grill) doesn't cut it alone. Makes for a very flexible scheme.
Tom
“This place smells like that odd combination of flop sweat, hopelessness, aaaand feet"
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I had the exact same dilemma as the OP. When you boil it down either way you end up having to install boxes (either junction or outlet) near each light. I opted for the outlets. With outlets when the ballast croaks, you can unplug the light, take it down and fix it. The other option is to switch off the breaker, unwire the light and then repair it or replace the ballast with the light off while it is still hanging on the ceiling. I opted for the outlets, the difference in price was the additional cost of the $0.79 outlet.
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Option #1 is the best way to go so much easier to change out when one goes bad.
