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A few years ago someone advertised on S&S below that they had 1.25' carbide tipped bandsaw blade material for sale. He was selling whatever lengths you wanted. Then you could get it welded to have a carbide blade a lot cheaper than if you bought a commercial blade somewhere. So I bought blade material and had it welded for my Grizzly 636X. It was a great blade for resawing. I say "was" because it broke this week. I would have thought it would have broken at the weld but it didn't. I was glad it stayed in the saw and didn't stream out into the room with me. So now I'll be looking for a new blade. Any suggestions. Ken
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Not breaking at the weld is worrisome. It may indicate the blade material is more brittle than it should be. Did it break just on either side of the weld or in a completely different place? If it broke adjacent to the weld but not on the weld itself, then the weld wasn't done properly.
Still Learning,
Allan Hill
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Ken - I've had 2 Lennox 1" carbide tipped blades break in the last couple of years. I heard/read that older Lennox blades were prone to breakage on smaller saws (MM16) but that they have improved their blade material . I'm still hesitant to make that investment again.
Rick
Rick
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Ken Vick said:
A few years ago someone advertised on S&S below that they had 1.25' carbide tipped bandsaw blade material for sale. He was selling whatever lengths you wanted. Then you could get it welded to have a carbide blade a lot cheaper than if you bought a commercial blade somewhere. So I bought blade material and had it welded for my Grizzly 636X. It was a great blade for resawing. I say "was" because it broke this week. I would have thought it would have broken at the weld but it didn't. I was glad it stayed in the saw and didn't stream out into the room with me. So now I'll be looking for a new blade. Any suggestions. Ken
Have you considered having the blade rewelded? I dunno the safety aspects of it, but I've heard of it done before.
Semper fi,
Brad
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I would be leary of a broken band that was welded unless it was broken at the original weld. I have seen a foot or so taken out and then a new piece added in. that is likely the only way I would consider it
Joe
Let us not seek the Republican Answer , or the Democratic answer. Let us not seek to fix the blame for the past. Let us accept our own responsibility for the future John F. Kennedy
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JGrout said:
I would be leary of a broken band that was welded unless it was broken at the original weld. I have seen a foot or so taken out and then a new piece added in. that is likely the only way I would consider it
Joe
Yep and since this now has a kink in it from the sudden stop when it slammed into the lower housing, I think it is toast. Thanks. Ken
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Ken,
That is an awful big blade for a 17" saw. I would think 1" would be the max size on a 17" wheel. I have been using 1" woodmaster CT blades on my MM 20 and love them. I know everyone says they can not be sharpened but I have got two sharpenings out of one of mine already. They also hold up really well. Mine gets almost daily use resawing and I usually send it out about once a year. Most of my resawing is just 12"-16" wide poplar for drawer parts but that still isn't too shabby.
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®smpr_fi_mac® said:
[blockquote]Ken Vick said:
A few years ago someone advertised on S&S below that they had 1.25' carbide tipped bandsaw blade material for sale. He was selling whatever lengths you wanted. Then you could get it welded to have a carbide blade a lot cheaper than if you bought a commercial blade somewhere. So I bought blade material and had it welded for my Grizzly 636X. It was a great blade for resawing. I say "was" because it broke this week. I would have thought it would have broken at the weld but it didn't. I was glad it stayed in the saw and didn't stream out into the room with me. So now I'll be looking for a new blade. Any suggestions. Ken
Have you considered having the blade rewelded? I dunno the safety aspects of it, but I've heard of it done before.
[/blockquote]
A work-hardened blade is going to be brittle and break sooner. I wouldn't.
Better to follow the leader than the pack. Less to step in.
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Ken
The VA bought me the same bandsaw and I like it for cutting up logs into bowls for turning.
I did find on a DVD telling how to keep cracks or brakeage from happening is to take a stone and round off the corners on the back of the blade. Since I started doing that I have never had one brake again.
Did have them come off of the wheel due to misuse but that is a different story.
Arlin
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Arlin Eastman said:
Ken
The VA bought me the same bandsaw and I like it for cutting up logs into bowls for turning.
I did find on a DVD telling how to keep cracks or brakeage from happening is to take a stone and round off the corners on the back of the blade. Since I started doing that I have never had one brake again.
Did have them come off of the wheel due to misuse but that is a different story.
Arlin
Arlin,
Typically you do that for blades you are cutting curves with and you are right, it does help a lot. Ken was using his blade exclusively for resawing. If the saw is set properly the back of the blade should never touch the wood on a resaw cut. It should stay right in the middle of the kerf and not touch either side.
