54" table top
#11
I am planning on building a 54" diameter octagon table. The legs are going to curve up form the center to the outer edge of the top. The top will be 3/4" baltic birch ply with some fancy veneers. Do I need to run any bracing under the top to keep it from warping or sagging? There will be a 3"-4" hardwood band around the outside and a 2" skirt underneath. I have not built a table before and the base is going to push my woodworking skills so I am a bit nervous and want to get it right.
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#12
No expert here, I've only built one table (52" round).

You said you were using a skirt and a hardwood border; that sounds stable enough to me.
"I tried being reasonable..........I didn't like it." Clint Eastwood
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#13
A picture would help.
A good joint with the joint landing on a leg piece would be best.

Veneer both sides equally (not pattern)

To keep it from being tippy
I would suggest 70% of the top or 37-38" diameter
Woodwork... It's what I do for a living.
(well, such as it may be, It's my job)
((cept my boss is a @#!*&))
I think I'm gonna fire myself for that
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#14
To avoid warping, make sure that both the top and bottom are veneered.
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#15
Bill Holt said:


No expert here, I've only built one table (52" round).

You said you were using a skirt and a hardwood border; that sounds stable enough to me.




I agree.

If it's 3/4 ply, with a skirt, and the legs are flared out as support, it's going to be a pretty sturdy top.

I'm assuming the flared legs are going to be structural, so the only place it can really flex is that last bit of overhang outside the legs/skirt, which is mostly a hardwood border anyway?
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#16
In about 1970, my first husband glued two pieces of 3/4" ply to make 1.5", cut a 48" round, and put it on a center support. No skirt, etc. It has never budged.
Carolyn

Trip Blog for Twelve Countries:   [url=http://www.woodworkingtraveler.wordpress.com[/url]

"It's good to know, but it's better to understand."  Auze Jackson
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#17
Yes both sides will be veneered. The picture below is the base I am trying to make. The flared legs will be supporting the outer edge with no support in the middle. I was more worried about the center possibly flexing or sagging.

For the bottom curved pieces I was planning on band sawing. The large curved pieces I was going to use bent lamination using cherry. I am all ears for any suggestion on how to build.

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#18
Why veneer?
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#19
My best advice....


Start with something easier

Sounds ruder than it is meant.
Woodwork... It's what I do for a living.
(well, such as it may be, It's my job)
((cept my boss is a @#!*&))
I think I'm gonna fire myself for that
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#20
Never built one of these before? Maybe take the time to make one out poplar before committing to more expensive materials. Just a suggestion.

As for sagging in the middle, unless you're looking to do long term storage of an anvil in the middle of the table, or use it like a Coyote Ugly dance floor, I doubt you'll have issues with the middle sagging.
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