09-14-2015, 04:24 PM
I have a question about wedged tenons. I'm referring the the kind with two parallel saw kerfs into the end grain, with wedges tapped and glued in to lock the joint. I do not mean the loose, crosswise wedge you see on trestle tables.
When the tenon has square corners, the mortise can be funnel-shaped, with the tenon fitting snugly on the inside of the joint, then flaring out toward the outside. One advantage, assuming one has chiseled the flared recesses accurately, is that the end-grain view of the tenon is symmetric. The exposed cross-sections of the two wedges have the same thickness. This looks good.
When the tenon is rounded, what does one do? I use a tailed router to make the mortises, and there's no easy was to get the flared, funnel shape. The simplest approach is simply to widen the entire mortise. This works -- granted, the tenon edges don't make contact along their length, but it still locks* -- but because the joint has slop, it's difficult to get it centered. As a result, the wedge cross sections are noticeably different in thickness. Visually, it's a little jarring.
Is there a better way?
Thanks.
*This was for a handle on a small serving tray, so it's not subject to much stress.
When the tenon has square corners, the mortise can be funnel-shaped, with the tenon fitting snugly on the inside of the joint, then flaring out toward the outside. One advantage, assuming one has chiseled the flared recesses accurately, is that the end-grain view of the tenon is symmetric. The exposed cross-sections of the two wedges have the same thickness. This looks good.
When the tenon is rounded, what does one do? I use a tailed router to make the mortises, and there's no easy was to get the flared, funnel shape. The simplest approach is simply to widen the entire mortise. This works -- granted, the tenon edges don't make contact along their length, but it still locks* -- but because the joint has slop, it's difficult to get it centered. As a result, the wedge cross sections are noticeably different in thickness. Visually, it's a little jarring.
Is there a better way?
Thanks.
*This was for a handle on a small serving tray, so it's not subject to much stress.
Best,
Aram, always learning
"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Web: My woodworking photo site
Aram, always learning
"Perfection is achieved, not when there is nothing more to add, but when there is nothing left to take away.” Antoine de Saint-Exupery
Web: My woodworking photo site
