hand saw too aggressive
#11
Just got my 8 pointer back from the sharpener and it seems to be too aggressive, you can hardly saw. Can it be lightly stoned on the sides, seems the set looks good, never had this problem before and I've been getting saws sharpened for 50 plus years. Thanks for any n all help
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#12
I would like to hear more about this too.

I never new a saw could be to aggressive and thought everyone wanted one like that.

Anyone to answer his question?

Arlin
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#13
I assume this is a cross cut saw? Rake, fleam, amount of set? If it is supposed to be rip and fleam was added, this could cause it to be "sticky sharp" in the sense the points filed on the teeth are catching on the pores of the wood. Otherwise I personally do not like to stone my saws. If the saw cuts straight I would leave it alone. Providing it was filed well in the first place. I would contact the person who filed it to seek the answers to the above questions.
BontzSawWorks.net
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#14
I wonder if it will 'calm down' after using it for a while?

I often notice freshly sharpened saws are too aggressive, but they quickly become comfortable after a few weeks of use.
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#15
I had the same issue with a large backsaw I owned. The solution is to apply less pressure when starting the cut. Let the weight of the saw establish the initial kerf. The fact that it's hard to push means it's really sharp. Eventually, the scary sharp points will wear down a bit so that you can put some more pressure on the cut. Generally, though, I recommend letting the saw do the work, and let the hand merely push and pull the saw through the cut. I think the number one problem with learning how to use hand saws is putting too much pressure and trying to force the saw deeper.
Still Learning,

Allan Hill
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#16
tim_leo said:


I wonder if it will 'calm down' after using it for a while?

I often notice freshly sharpened saws are too aggressive, but they quickly become comfortable after a few weeks of use.



+1 on that. Sticky sharp points.
BontzSawWorks.net
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#17
You say you've been having saws sharpened for 50 years without ever having a problem.

Was this saw sharpened by someone new?

Different filers do it differently.

Was it filed by hand or by machine?

Was it filed for soft dry wood or dry hardwood?

Several things will make it aggressive.... not enough rake angle and or too much set. The fleam angle can also add to the problem. Filing the teeth with sloped gullets can effect how it cuts.

Yes, when it begins to get dull, it won't be so grabby, but if it is filed correctly for the type of wood you are sawing, it should cut smoothly from the git go.
Catchalater,
Marv


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#18
Thanks for the replies, it was machine sharpened, took it to a local lumberyard and they send it out. They changed sharpener, the old one quit, Don't know how much experience he has! I guess aggressive was a poor choice of a word, it's more like grabby, it's hard to cut with a smooth motion thanks again. Gramps
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#19
What are you cutting?

Have you swiped a little oil, or wax on the plate?

My guess is that you've got a perfectly aligned set of teeth,
and they're all trying to cut at the same time - without any slop.

If you're used to bearing down in the cut, try raising the board
so only the weight of the saw holds it in the kerf.

I'm with you - I like a saw that has a balance between cutting quickly, straight and leaving a fine sawn edge to plane off.

Machine filed saws tend to do two of three well...
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#20
Providing the tooth geometry wasn't radically changed by the resharpening, stoning the teeth lightly on both sides will probably help. The little burrs left from the filing will eventually go away on their own, but you can speed up the process with the stone.
Steve S.
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