Stanley plane
#10
  Re: (...)
I'm normally in the lathe forum but my question is about an old Stanley plane.
I want to do some inlay before I turn some pieces. My plan is to make my cut with the bandsaw and put in a contrasting wood. How do I set the plane for a deeper cut for a thicker ribbon. I have moved the knob but see no difference. I get nice ribbons now but they are thinner than I want in the pieces I have tried it on.

Thanks.
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#11
  Re: Stanley plane by gear jammer (I'm normally in the ...)
The thickness of shaving you can cut will depend on a lot of things but the wood is going to be the major one. You may have noticed that the shavings want to curl. A thick shaving is going to break before it will curl that tight. My suggestion, forget the plane and cut strips on the tablesaw.
Blackhat
Common decency is as rare as common sense. I figure there was only a finite amount of both made and its getting shared out among too many folks.


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#12
  Re: Stanley plane by gear jammer (I'm normally in the ...)
You might try cutting as thin a piece of inlay as possible on a tablesaw or bandsaw then glue that in place and plane it down to match.


carl
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#13
  Re: Stanley plane by gear jammer (I'm normally in the ...)
The purpose of your plane is to make wood thinner and shavings are a byproduct. I doubt you will be successful making a suitable thick shaving because the force of cutting breaks the wood fibers of the shaving.

There is a way to use your plane to produce the thin wood you require. First, use your bandsaw to create a thin piece of wood. Then use your plane to make this thin piece thinner.

Good luck with your project.
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#14
  Re: Re: Stanley plane by JimReed@Tallahassee (The purpose of your ...)

What Jim said.
Credo Elvem ipsum etiam vivere
Non impediti ratione cogitationis
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#15
  Re: Stanley plane by gear jammer (I'm normally in the ...)
I have not seem Alex around here in quite a while, but you might want to check out his inlay cutting technique (~1:35)

Pens 4 College

A zero-clearance insert on the TS would have been a good idea.

FWIW
"the most important safety feature on any tool is the one between your ears." - Ken Vick

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#16
  Re: Stanley plane by gear jammer (I'm normally in the ...)
Thanks for the answers. I inlay pen blanks and peppermill blanks from simple cross and angle cuts to swirl designs. I am taking the edge off of a one and a quarter inch wide board of contrasting color with the plane. I soak the curl for roughly ten minutes while I put glue in the cuts then thread the curl into the cut and clamp. Longest I have needed so far is only 2 four inch long pieces in a peppermill swirled pattern. Not worried about the filling the center since it is drilled out.

Using the table saw to make the pieces makes a lot of sawdust for what I want to do and I have had good results with the pieces off the plane.. I want my curls a little thicker on some pieces so I can show more of the contrast.
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#17
  Re: Re: Stanley plane by gear jammer (Thanks for the answe...)
Well, if you want to go the plane route (I assume you've already tried veneer). You might try backing off the chip-breaker (maybe to a 16th or more) and setting the frog back so you get an open mouth. Choose straight grained wood and have at it. Good luck!
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#18
  Re: Re: Stanley plane by DCarr10760 (Well, if you want to...)
Veneer is sliced in production, essentially the same way as the plane will cut. Don't know what is cutting angle of giant knife that slice it, but I believe it is in proximity of plane angle.
Is I remember log is soaked before slicing.

Never tried, but it cross my mind that you can try to put some veneer softener to board before you cut it.
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